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As the access to materials increased, competition to design the most beautiful patterns rose, with an estimate of over 300 different kogin-zashi patterns being created. In the 20th century, the craft of kogin-zashi was streamlined, establishing the three general types that are seen today: nishi-kogin , higashi-kogin , and mishima-kogin . [ 2 ]
Many sashiko patterns were derived from Chinese designs, but just as many were developed by native Japanese embroiderers; for example, the style known as kogin-zashi, which generally consists of diamond-shaped patterns in horizontal rows, is a distinctive variety of sashiko that was developed in Aomori Prefecture.
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In free or surface embroidery, designs are applied without regard to the weave of the underlying fabric. Examples include crewel and traditional Chinese and Japanese embroidery. Counted-thread embroidery patterns are created by making stitches over a predetermined number of threads in the foundation fabric.
The term is derived from the Japanese term "boroboro", meaning something tattered or repaired. [2] The term 'boro' typically refers to cotton, linen and hemp materials, mostly hand-woven by peasant farmers, that have been stitched or re-woven together to create an often many-layered material used for warm, practical clothing.
(translator did not translate the full book text, but from the acknowledgements of vol 1 it sounds as if some of his translations might be incorporated into the work) Author Crown copyright claimed, but published over 50 years ago, so expired in UK.
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