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  2. Dispersion (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)

    Dispersion of gravity waves on a fluid surface. Phase and group velocity divided by shallow-water phase velocity √ gh as a function of relative depth h / λ. Blue lines (A): phase velocity; Red lines (B): group velocity; Black dashed line (C): phase and group velocity √ gh valid in shallow water.

  3. Waves and shallow water - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

    When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. [1] The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp ...

  4. Ripple tank - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ripple_tank

    The speed of a wave in water depends on the depth, so the ripples slow down as they pass over the glass. This causes the wavelength to decrease. If the junction between the deep and shallow water is at an angle to the wavefront, the waves will refract. In the diagram above, the waves can be seen to bend towards the normal.

  5. File:Deep and shallow water waves.pdf - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Deep_and_shallow...

    You are free: to share – to copy, distribute and transmit the work; to remix – to adapt the work; Under the following conditions: attribution – You must give appropriate credit, provide a link to the license, and indicate if changes were made.

  6. Capillary wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capillary_wave

    Capillary waves (ripples) in water Ripples on Lifjord in Øksnes Municipality, Norway Capillary waves produced by droplet impacts on the interface between water and air.. A capillary wave is a wave traveling along the phase boundary of a fluid, whose dynamics and phase velocity are dominated by the effects of surface tension.

  7. File:Shallow water blackout diagram 2 revised.svg - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Shallow_water...

    Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with no Invariant Sections, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back-Cover Texts.

  8. Stokes wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stokes_wave

    Several integral properties of Stokes waves on deep water as a function of wave steepness. [23] The wave steepness is defined as the ratio of wave height H to the wavelength λ. The wave properties are made dimensionless using the wavenumber k = 2π / λ, gravitational acceleration g and the fluid density ρ.

  9. Kelvin wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelvin_wave

    A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean, ... the speed of so-called shallow-water gravity waves without the effect of Earth's rotation. [4] However, only one of the two ...

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