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When the basement wall is insulated from the interior, there are a few different ways to achieve minimum R-values. This article illustrates the three most common options: continuous rigid insulation, a combination of continuous rigid insulation and insulation batts, or closed-cell spray foam. Regardless of the insulation method you choose, here ...
A Case for Double-Stud Walls. Straightforward construction, common materials, and low embodied carbon are just some of the benefits of this superinsulated assembly. By Dan Kolbert Issue 291 - June 2020. Synopsis: High-performance builder Dan Kolbert’s ideal wall is a double-stud approach filled with dense-pack cellulose insulation.
2178 posts · Joined 2012. #1 · Feb 8, 2012. My home is comprised of a 70's single-wide that has evolved into a 1600sqft house with a pitched roof. I'm taking down some of the original interior paneling and replacing with drywall - about 18' of wall. Seems like a good time to upgrade the insulation and vapour barrier.
Remember, walls are only 20% of your total heat loss (wild estimate) and an extra 20% improvement in the wall insulation would result is a 2% overall improvement (20% x 10% = 2%). The big improvement comes from air sealing as it improves both insulation value and comfort.
We rebuilt/added to an existing wall in our conference room. Removed existing drywall on one side, built another 2x4 wall 1/2" away from existing wall. Filled both walls with batt insulation. One layer of 5/8" drywall on new wall glued with Green Glue, then another layer of 5/8" drywall perpendicular to first drywall, with Green Glue in between.
We build with 2x6 walls 16" o.c. 7/16" OSB sheathing with 1/2" R-Board over. The walls are insulated with 2" of "Corbon" spray foam insulation with R-13 fiberglass batts over. This gives you an R-factor of 31. But it also necesitates the use of an air to air exchanger, so that the house can breath.
This is an old garage being converted into a 2 story addition. All loads are specced based on 2x4 walls so this is strictly for more insulation as I’m in Connecticut. Any new walls that are going up are 2x6 such as this wall where the garage door was, and I’m having the framers use 2x6 for any openings they are framing out or making larger.
With a 2x6 wall the dew point is at the middle of the wall whereas with 2x4 and insulation it would be much closer to the outside of the wall cavity. We require R20 in walls in this area. I'm not a framer nor was I aware of a dew point but am still interested in this topic. I'd be interested in other comments.
Closed-cell foam is so dense that it is difficult to trim. To avoid having to trim closed-cell foam in a 2×4 wall, the installer will usually stop at a maximum depth of about 3 in., instead of the full 3-1⁄2 in. depth of the stud cavity. This leaves the typically bumpy surface of cured foam and about a 1⁄2-in. gap to the back of the drywall.
If the great outdoors are on the other side, thats an exterior wall. XPS is common and has an R value of R5 per inch, so you would need to space out the finished wall half an inch. Polyiso is common and has an R value of 6.5 per inch. Either would be readily avalable in 1.5" or 2" thickness.