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Kings and nobles bought the woven fabric by the yard, wearing it as a gown or using it as a wrap or shawl. Jamawar weaving centres in India developed in the holy cities and the trade centres. The most well known Jamawar weaving centre is Kashmir and Punjab in India. [5] [6]
Calico – cotton fabric with a small, all-over floral print [14] Muslin – UK: muslin gauze – simple, cheap equal weft and warp plain weave fabric in white, cream or unbleached cotton and/or a very fine, light plain weave cotton fabric; Muslin gauze – the very lightest, most open weave of muslin
The stencils are dipped in heated wax and then hand pressed onto the fabric. The fabric is next soaked in dye long enough for the fabric to absorb the color. Typically Androsia is brightly colored, with hot pink and purple being two very common colors. During the dying process the wax prevents the dye from adhering to the fabric.
"Jama" means robe and "war" is yard. The base of the jamawar is mostly silk, with perhaps an addition of a little polyester. The brocaded parts are woven in similar threads of silk and polyester. Most of the designs seen today are floral, with the kairy (i.e. the paisley) as the predominant motif. Today, the best jamawar is woven in Varanasi ...
One block was used for each colour of the final fabric, The block was inked by placing into a vat of colorant, and then carefully placed onto the fabric on the table in front of the craftsman. He pounded it with a mallet to impress the colour, then he lifted the block carefully, moved the fabric, re-inked the block, and printed the next section ...
Even the fancy fabrics vary with a certain fashion. The fabrics are limited to amount and design and are sometimes exclusively sold in own shops. At first the fancy prints were made with engraved metal rollers but more recently they are produced using rotary screen-printing process. [15] The production of these imitation wax-print fabrics ...
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