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Close-up of a rare contemporary chope made in Rajpura, Punjab (India) in 2015. This is the only style where the outlines of the figures are drawn using black ink. It is then filled by embroidering with darn stitch. In other styles, there are no patterns drawn and the work was done only by counting the threads from the back.
The embroidery styles of the Punjab region include the styles of Multani embroidery which features kalabatun [84] patterns using thin wires. This type of embroidery is also common in the rest of the Punjab region. Kalabatan surkh involves using gold wires on orange coloured and red silk.
Further styles include naala jaal which involves embroidery particularly on the neckline and chest/yoke: naala means neck in the Koshur dialect of Kashmiri language; jaama is a very dense embroidery covering the whole base fabric with a thick spread of vine/creepers and flowers, badaam and heart shapes, a variation of this form is neem-jaama ...
Kashida is the local lingo for the embroidery. Kasidkari known as kashida - kari, [ 2 ] is the Punjabi and Hindi for needlework . [ 5 ] It is also known as kasidakari.
Women in ghagra choli, c. 1872. Ghagra choli (also known as lehenga choli and chaniya choli) is a type of ethnic clothing for women from the India, notably in the Indian states of Rajasthan, [1] [2] Gujarat, [3] Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Haryana, Punjab, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Jammu and Kashmir.
The traditional shalwar kameez worn in the Punjab region is cut differently to the styles worn in Balochistan and Afghanistan and is known as a "Punjabi suit" [56] [57] with the kameez being cut straight and flat with side slits [58] (which is a local development as earlier forms of kameez did not have side slits). [59]
The Punjabi ghagra (Punjabi: ਘੱਗਰਾ) is a four-piece outfit [1] known as tewar or 'ti-or' which was traditionally worn by Punjabi women throughout the Punjab region with the outfit comprising a head scarf (), kurta or kurti, [2] ghagra (long skirt) and either a suthan (baggy trousers with a tight band around the ankles) or the Punjabi salwar (trousers). [3]
The technique of chikan embroidery is known as chikankari (चिकनकारी چکن کاری).Chikankari is a delicate and artfully done hand embroidery on a variety of textile fabrics like cotton, chanderi, muslin, georgette, viscose, silk, organza, net, etc. White thread is embroidered on cool, pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments.