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Yes, with the shutoff for hot water closed, or the main shutoff valve closed, the water heater is isolated from the well pressure tank; but that's obviously abnormal conditions, and in particular I'm going to turn the water heater circuit-breaker off in any of those modes (working on the hot water system, or going out of town, respectively).
It still holds water pressure, about 65psi, and doesn't leak. My idea is to use it as an additional tank for my compressor. The compressor set-up is a 2-stage, 3 h.p., oil lubed on a 50 gal. tank. I keep the in/out set at 100/125 pi. I was thinking that I could parallel the HWH tank so that I can increase storage, and reduce the compressor cycles.
Much better performance, more usable heat from same size tank. 2) Indirect DHW tank, plumbed as a zone in the heating system so that it can be heated with wood or backup heat source. 3) DHW tank mounted near but above pressurized storage with sidearm heat exchanger plumbed to thermosiphon from storage.
When the pressure on the discharge of the expansion tank drops below a low set point the water will stop flowing out the faucet (unless its below the water heater). Most hot water heaters have some storage volume so you could just alternate between running the pump until the tank is full and then switching on the water heater.
If it's full, then the bladder is burst or the tank isn't charged correctly, so you push in the schrader valve - if water comes out, then you know it's burst. If not, you know to add some air pressure. If using standard tanks (Extrol 60's for example), install them vertically, with the fitting on the top.
Adding a Water Heater Coil. newguy08. Feb 19, 2009. Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment. We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
Aug 14, 2014. #1. I thought it'd be a good idea to put an air vent at the top of the 120 gallon buffer tank I'm installing for filling and air removal. The manual mentions that some localities require vacuum protection so that the tank doesn't collapse. The tank has an extra 1.5" connection on top.
The head pressure on this 1.5" primary loop is very low - 4 feet of head or less, and the return line is 37" or so below the top of the water level in the 500 gal storage tank, so the suction side of the circ has little danger of seeing any starvation.
1PSI = 2.31ft of head You want the tank to be the high point of the system. 2-4 feet above your highest radiation will be sufficient for pressure and aid in purging. The reason most of the old open expansion tanks were in the attic was simply a matter of convenience and appearance. Quality is like oats.
So the heating system kicks on very little. Now I'd like to install an electric water heater to supply hot water and bypass the tankless coil in the boiler. I would alter the wiring in the aquastat (Honeywell l8124a) to cold start the boiler and install a ball valve to stop the supply of city water to the boiler coil.