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Some of the important wave processes are refraction, diffraction, reflection, wave breaking, wave–current interaction, friction, wave growth due to the wind, and wave shoaling. In the absence of the other effects, wave shoaling is the change of wave height that occurs solely due to changes in mean water depth – without alterations in wave ...
Audience effect; Baader–Meinhof effect; Barnum effect; Bezold effect; Birthday-number effect; Boomerang effect; Bouba/kiki effect; Bystander effect; Cheerleader effect; Cinderella effect; Cocktail party effect; Contrast effect; Coolidge effect; Crespi effect; Cross-race effect; Curse of knowledge; Diderot effect; Dunning–Kruger effect ...
Stokes drift – Average velocity of a fluid parcel in a gravity wave; Undertow (water waves) – Return flow below nearshore water waves. Ursell number – Dimensionless number indicating the nonlinearity of long surface gravity waves on a fluid layer. Wave shoaling – Effect by which surface waves entering shallower water change in wave height
English: Shoaling coefficient K S as a function of relative water depth h/L 0, describing the effect of wave shoaling on the wave height – based on conservation of energy and results from Airy wave theory. The local wave height H at a certain mean water depth h is equal to H = K S H 0, with H 0 the wave height in deep water (i.e. when the ...
Simulation of periodic waves over an underwater shoal with a Boussinesq-type model. The waves propagate over an elliptic-shaped underwater shoal on a plane beach. This example combines several effects of waves and shallow water, including refraction, diffraction, shoaling and weak non-linearity.
Diffraction is one of the wave effects which can be described with Airy wave theory. Further, by using the WKBJ approximation, wave shoaling and refraction can be predicted. [2] Earlier attempts to describe surface gravity waves using potential flow were made by, among others, Laplace, Poisson, Cauchy and Kelland.
Shoaling can also refract waves, so the waves change direction. For example, if waves pass over a sloping bank which is shallower at one end than the other, then the shoaling effect will result in the waves slowing more at the shallow end. Thus, the wave fronts will refract, changing direction like light passing through a prism.
The five symbols are a hollow circle, a plus sign, three vertical wavy lines, a hollow square, and a hollow five-pointed star. [3]: 115 [4] In a test for ESP, the experimenter picks up a card in a shuffled pack, observes the symbol, and records the answer of the person being tested, who would guess which of the five designs is on the card.