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It was a frame loom, equipped with treadles to lift the warp threads, leaving the weaver's hands free to pass and beat the weft thread. [48] A pit loom has a pit for the treadles, reducing the stress transmitted through the much shorter frame. [49] In a wooden vertical-shaft loom, the heddles are fixed in place in the shaft.
On a Lancashire loom weaving grey cloth, this was a simple but time-consuming task, but for a complex pattern on a Jacquard tapestry loom, great care was needed. To do this, the new beam was mounted on the back of a drawing-in frame, the healds were held next in a vertical position, and in front the reed would be clamped.
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Brocade is typically woven on a draw loom. It is a supplementary weft technique; that is, the ornamental brocading is produced by a supplementary, non-structural, weft in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The purpose of this is to give the appearance that the weave was actually embroidered on.
A Jacquard loom showing information punchcards, National Museum of Scotland. Traditionally, figured designs were made on a drawloom. The heddles with warp ends to be pulled up were manually selected by a second operator, the draw boy, not the weaver. The work was slow and labour-intensive, and the complexity of the pattern was limited by ...
Lampas is a type of luxury fabric created on a draw loom with a background weft (a "ground weave") typically in taffeta with supplementary wefts (the "pattern wefts") laid on top and forming a design, sometimes also with a "brocading weft". Lampas is typically woven in silk, and often has gold and silver thread enrichment. The lampas technique ...
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The word dobby is a corruption of "draw boy," which refers to the weaver's helpers who used to control the warp thread by pulling on draw threads. A dobby loom is an alternative to a treadle loom. Both are floor looms in which every warp thread on the loom is attached to a single shaft using a device called a heddle. A shaft is sometimes known ...