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Aari type of embroidery is done by cobblers with intricate chain stitch patterned on designs of the Mughals. [ 1 ] Gotauvn or Gotany which includes Chekan , Chopad , Katri and Mukko types, is done by Muslim pastoral people of 11 villages, using several intricate patterns of stitches, expensive silk fabrics, metallic threads and mirrors.
Some of the stitches that are used in Chikankari work include: taipchi, pechni, pashni, bakhia (ulta bakhia and sidhi bakhia), gitti, jangira, murri, phanda, jaalis etc. In English: chain stitch, buttonhole stitch, French knots and running stitch, shadow work. Another is the khatao (also called khatava or katava).
This embroidery inherited the name of the Cornely machine. Created in the 19th century to imitate the Beauvais stitch (chain stitch), it is still used today, especially in the fashion industry. Cornely embroidery is a so-called hand-guided embroidery. The operator directs their machine according to the pattern.
An illustration of the buttonhole stitch. In everyday language, a stitch in the context of embroidery or hand-sewing is defined as the movement of the embroidery needle from the back of the fibre to the front side and back to the back side. [1] The thread stroke on the front side produced by this is also called stitch.
Surface embroidery techniques such as chain stitch and couching or laid-work are the most economical of expensive yarns; couching is generally used for goldwork. Canvas work techniques, in which large amounts of yarn are buried on the back of the work, use more materials but provide a sturdier and more substantial finished textile. [34]
Drawn thread work is one of the earliest forms of open work embroidery, and has been worked throughout Europe. Originally it was often used for ecclesiastical items and to ornament shrouds. [ 1 ] It is a form of counted-thread embroidery based on removing threads from the warp and/or the weft of a piece of even-weave fabric.
Slip stitch – form of blind stitch for fastening two pieces of fabric together from the right side without the thread showing; Stoating – used to join two pieces of woven material, such that the resulting stitches are not visible from the right side of the cloth; Straight stitch – the basic stitch in hand-sewing and embroidery
The stitching on the cloth gives it a slightly wrinkled, wavy effect. Contemporary kantha is applied to a wider range of garments such as sarees, dupatta, shirts for men and women, bedding and other furnishing fabrics, mostly using cotton and silk. Modern Kantha-stitch craft industry involves a very complex multi-staged production model. [6]