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A diamond's cut is evaluated by trained graders, with higher grades given to stones whose symmetry and proportions most closely match the particular "ideal" used as a benchmark. The strictest standards are applied to the round brilliant; although its facet count is invariable, its proportions are not.
Diamond proportions and facets, for the round brilliant cut. The original round brilliant-cut was developed by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919. The ideal proportions are 100% diameter, 53% table, 43.1% pavilion and 16.2% crown. The girdle and culet (if any—not part of Tolkowsky's original design) are cut from the ideal brilliant.
The diamond cut planning stage is a complex process that requires the cutter to work with unique rough stones. Very often, the location of the inclusions in a rough stone will determine the type of shape to which a diamond may be cut. For economic reasons, most diamonds are cut to retain weight instead of maximizing brilliance. [2]
In 1919, Lazare Kaplan's cousin, mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky, first published the mathematical formula for diamonds cut to "ideal" proportions, a formula designed to optimise the brilliance, fire and sparkle in a polished diamond. In the same year, LKI became the first commercial-scale operation to cut its diamonds to ideal proportions.
Several different theories on the "ideal" proportions of a diamond have been and continue to be advocated by various owners of patents on machines to view how well a diamond is cut. These advocate a shift away from grading cut by the use of various angles and proportions toward measuring the performance of a cut stone.
For a more fashion-forward piece, this diamond ring includes a thick 18k yellow gold band with a “floating” ring of baguette-cut diamonds above it. $1,990 at Brilliant Earth Shane Co.
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