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In trad climbing belay stations, load-sharing anchors are often constructed from more than two individual anchors, which are rarely co-planar. In these cases, each individual anchor would feel a reduced force from the above values, but the best practice is to reduce the angle between the two outermost elements and avoid angles in excess of 120 ...
Bowline on a bight: Used for equalizing anchors. Stopper Knots Stevedore knot (also known as Double figure eight): The Stevedore knot is tied at the end of a rope to prevent the end from unraveling, slipping through another knot, or passing back through a hole, block, or belay/rappel device.
Uses include creating friction prusik knots for ascending or gripping fixed climbing ropes, usually using thinner approximately 5 to 6 mm (0.20 to 0.24 in) cord, or for attaching to, and equalizing forces across, multiple fixed anchors points, [15] such as when setting up abseil or belay anchors on multi-pitch climbing routes, usually using ...
The earliest type of self-belay device used was the ubiquitous prusik knotted sling used by climbers. The method requires the solo climber to feed out an estimated length of belay rope so that they can reach their next stance and repeat the process as the rope is difficult to feed through the prusik knot while climbing.
While bolts are commonplace in rock and gym climbing there is no universal vocabulary to describe them. Generally, a bolt hanger (or a fixed hanger) is a combination of a fixed bolt and a specialized stainless steel hanger designed to accept a carabiner, whereas in certain regions a bolt runner (or a carrot) describes a hangerless bolt (where the climber must provide their own hanger bracket ...
A snow anchor (also called a snow pro) is a type of natural or artificial protection used in mountaineering, alpine climbing and ice climbing as an anchor. Two common artificial devices are the snow fluke and snow picket. A snow anchor is used both for climbing and for securing tents and other camping gear, that is designed for use in sand and ...
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The anchor point does not prevent a fall, but prevents the belayer from being pulled upwards during a fall. [4] This is normally not used when lead belaying. [5] To set up this anchor the belayer should place a piece of directional protection (i.e., a nut or cam) into a crack below their body, or tie themselves by the belay loop to a rock or tree.