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Suitable linen thread is no longer available, so today cotton thread is used. Kenmare needlepoint lace [6] begins with two pieces of cloth. Over this is layered a pattern and a matt contact. Thread is laid over the top in the outline of the design and secured with a fine detached buttonhole stitch in a process called "couching".
Irish crochet lace was traditionally made with a very fine steel crochet hook and fine crochet linen thread, though modern Irish crochet lace is made with mercerised thread. Traditionally, there are two styles of Irish crochet. One style, or fine crochet, is made up of squares or medallions, with shamrocks or roses in the centre.
Drawn thread embroidery is a very early form of open work embroidery, and is the basis of lace.Drawn thread work from the 12th century was known as Opus Tiratum and Punto Tirato [1] from the Arab Tiraz workshops in Palermo.
Drawn thread work or dragværk, another whitework technique, dates from the second half of the 18th century. Employing the warp and weft approach, white thread is drawn across the width of the white linen before figures such as animals are sewn in. The embroidery follows the length and intersections of the fabric. [8]
In 1476, the lace trade was seriously affected by a law which disallowed "silver and embroidery on any fabric and the Punto in Aria of linen threads made with a needle, or gold and silver threads." [ 10 ] : 10 In 1595, Morosina Morosini , another doge's wife, founded a lace workshop for 130 women.
Bobbin lace may be made with coarse or fine threads. Traditionally it was made with linen, silk, wool, or, later, cotton threads, or with precious metals. Bess of Hardwick bought red silk, gold, and silver thread for making "bone lace" in 1549, the earliest English reference to this kind of work. [13]
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