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--Oil pan heaters: Electric, magnetic or glue on, come in 100-600w versions. I like the glue on ones (have seen magnetic ones get knocked off), but have always used these in conjunction with block heater. Drawback is, only warms oil, so increases crank speed, but does nothing to enhance ignition of fuel.
Id like to put a block heater on the 484 but theres no freeze plugs to use for one. Anyone know of anything that works good? Ive seen some that stick to your oil pan but Id like something not stuck under there to get ripped off.
I'm using a Cat 416 Backhoe. It ran great for about a week and then the rain and cooler temps came and now it won't start. I thought I might bleed the fuel line but can't find the bleeder screw on the fuel pump. Does anybody have advice for regarding this situation.
Block Heater Yes, thank you for your response. I have a 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 4 wd with an existing block heater. I will fill out the signature with my truck information, thank you for the suggestion, I am new at the forum.
Subject:LBZ, LB7, LLY, Service Engine Soon (SES) Light Illuminated, DTC P0116, P0181 Set with Engine Coolant Heater Usage in Ambient Temps Above -18 Degrees C (0 Degrees F) (Replace Engine Coolant Heater Cord #06-06-04-027 - (04/27/2006) Models:2001-2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2006 Chevrolet...
when using a block heater is not possible, in cold weather, is it OK to use starting fluid to get the old 6.2 and the 6.5 running ? I have been advised that this will melt, or swell the glow plugs, and soon make the engine not start at all. will simply disconnecting the glow plug wires to start with spray starting fluid be OK ?
The 6.2 and 6.5 IDI engine is not one of them. GM put a nice warning sticker letting you know you may be replacing your 6.2/6.5 diesel engine if you use a starting aid. You have a 10+ HP starter, two batteries, 8 glow plugs, a glow plug controller, and optional block heater all dedicated to starting the cold blooded diesel.
Before going after water pump another source that is deceptive is the heater quick disconnect on outlet of the T stat housing, it's pot metal and corrodes over time and also has "o-rings" in it to seal that become "square rings " over time and leak & weep down the side of the block looking very similar to the weepage that comes out the water pump "tell-tale" weep hole.
Totally cold motor (of course). And it blew the radiator cap off and the block heater out a bit so all coolant leaked out in about 5 minutes of running. Looks like the element inside was defective, grounded and blew when I put voltage to it. The pressure caused everything to go boom.
Flexalite makes a dual puller with shroud 5500 CFM unit for a Duramax. While in theory it should fit the 6.5 radiator (as the cores are the same), the IDI 6.5 introduces much more heat into the cooling system than the 6.6 DI Duramax does and for other than light duty city driving without A/C or highway cruising in a moderate climate, I personally would not use electric fans as the primary ...