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Despite the kimono having been at one point and continuing to appear to be held shut by the obi, many modern obi are too wide and stiff to function in this way, with a series of ties known as koshihimo, worn underneath the obi, used to keep the kimono closed instead. Obi are categorised by their design, formality, material, and use, and can be ...
The obi-age has the dual purpose of hiding the obi-makura and providing a colour contrast against the obi. Obi-age are often silk, and are typically worn with more formal varieties of kimono. Obi-age can be plain-dyed silk, but are often decorated with shibori tie-dyeing; for maiko, obi-age are only ever red with a gold or silver foil design.
During this period, geisha began to use the otaiko-musubi (御太鼓結び) knot to tie obi (kimono belt), which spread to the general public and dramatically increased the decorative value of the obi. As a result, decorative kumihimo were used as obijime to support the obi.
There are many ways for men to tie hakama. First, the obi is tied in a special knot (an "under-hakama knot") at the rear. Starting with the front, the ties are brought around the waist and crossed over the top of the knot of the obi. The ties are brought to the front and crossed below the waist, then tied at the back, under the knot of the obi.
The darari obi is 6–7 metres (20–23 ft) long, is roughly 30 centimetres (12 in) wide, and is worn exclusively by maiko. Due to its length and weight, a male dresser (known as an otokoshi ) is needed to tie it; otokoshi can dress a maiko in as little as five minutes, and may dress a number of maiko each night.
It also featured an obi (belt), though unlike modern version, this was little more than a thin, cordlike length of fabric. The number of layers, and the type of layers, could alter the formality of a jūnihitoe outfit, with some accessories, such as overcoats and a long, skirt-like train (known as the mō ) only worn for special, formal occasions.
An unlined (hitoe) kimono made from tsumugi, showing soft drape.Tsumugi (紬) is a traditional slub-woven silk fabric from Japan.It is a tabby weave material woven from yarn produced using silk noil, short-staple silk fibre (as opposed to material produced using longer, filament yarn silk fibres).
A tasuki (襷/たすき) is a fashion accessory used for holding up the long sleeves of the Japanese kimono. It is a sash made from either cloth or cord that loops over each shoulder and crosses over the wearer's back. The bottom of the kimono sleeves can then be tucked into the loop, holding them back for convenience and functionality.