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Close-up shoot of zardozi (zardouzi) embroidery Vicereine Lady Curzon's peacock dress, with a skirt made of Indian zardozi needlework featuring green beetle wings and gold and silver thread, was a sensation at her coronation, making the front page of the Chicago Tribune on 27 September 1903.
Various types of embroidery patterns are used for a lehenga-style sari. Bagh, chikan, kashida, kasuti, kantha, sozni, shisha, and zardozi are some of the commonly practiced types of embroidery in the lehenga-style sari. Bagh is a special kind of embroidery done by women in Punjab to be worn during festivals and weddings.
The most opulent form of Indian embroidery is the Zari and the Zardozi or Zardosi, known since the late 16th century, brought in India by the Moghuls. The word Zardozi comes from the two Persian words, Zar (gold) and Dozi (embroidery). This form uses metallic thread. Once real gold and silver thread was used, on silk, brocade and velvet fabric.
Zari is used in various forms such as Zardozi, Kataoki Bel, [10] Mukaish, [11] Tilla or Marori Work, [12] Gota Work, [13] and Kinari Work. Surat in the state of Gujarat on the west coast of India is the world's largest producer of all types of zari namely threads, cantile, laces, ribbons, borders, trims, fringes, edges, cordonettes, cords, etc ...
The dress features a design representing the feathers of a peacock, a symbol of great significance in Indian culture and the Hindu religion, on a fabric traditionally worn by Mughal court rulers. [3] Lady Curzon's dress was a reference to the Peacock Throne that originally stood in the Diwan-I-Khas palace, where the ball took place.
Traditional Indian clothing for women across the country in Indian includes saris worn with choli tops; a skirt called a lehenga or chaniya worn with choli and a dupatta scarf to create an ensemble called a ghagra choli; while many south Indian children traditionally wear Langa voni. [citation needed].
[10] [11] Gupta is known to use traditional Indian embroidery techniques like zardozi, nakshi and dabka and borrow abstract patterns from nature. [12] He holds the distinction of being the third Indian designer, following Rahul Mishra (who has consistently showcased since 2020) and Vaishali S (in 2021), to present at the couture week. [7] [6]
Post-independence focus on revival of traditional textile and design led to the rise of "ethnic chic". The history of clothing in India dates back to ancient times, yet fashion is a new industry, as it was the traditional Indian clothing with regional variations, be it the sari, ghagra choli or dhoti, that remained popular until the early decades of post-independence India. [1]
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