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Single-tension systems largely replaced the ancient rope-tension methods in the late 19th century and are still used today in lower-priced drums for student use. In this system, one long tension rod with a threaded end extends through the hoop holding the top drum head and then down outside the drum shell to a threaded hole in the bottom hoop.
The working strength of a tie rod is the product of the allowable working stress and the rod's minimum cross-sectional area. If threads are cut into a cylindrical rod, that minimum area occurs at the root of the thread. Often rods are upset (made thicker at the ends) so that the tie rod does not become weaker when threads are cut into it.
A turnbuckle, stretching screw or bottlescrew is a device for adjusting the tension or length of ropes, cables, tie rods, and other tensioning systems. It normally consists of two threaded eye bolts , one screwed into each end of a small metal frame, one with a conventional right-hand thread and the other with a left-hand thread.
Casings, also known as lugs, vary in shape and size. They all serve the same purpose as the receiving end of the drum tension rod (also known as a tuning screw) and provide the anchor point for the tension rods themselves. Casings are found on nearly all modern drums.
[6] [13] The counter hoop is usually held in place with a number of tuning screws called tension rods placed regularly around the circumference. The head's tension can be adjusted by loosening or tightening the rods. Most timpani have six to eight tension rods. [11] The shape and material of the bowl's surface help to determine the drum's timbre.
Overall, I'd recommend using a tension rod that's suitable to hold whatever you plan to hang from it. If it's just going to hold a lightweight curtain, most tension rods should be fine.
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