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Padding gradually fell out of fashion again, and the doublet became close-fitting with a deep V-waistline. Elizabeth I's tailor, Walter Fyshe, first made her a doublet in 1575, of yellow satin decorated with silver lace. Elizabethan writers like Philip Stubbes criticised the fashion, as doublets were "a kind of attire appropriate only to man".
Arnold, Janet: Patterns of fashion 4: The cut and construction of linen shirts, smocks, neckwear, headwear and accessories for men and women c.1540-1660. Hollywood, CA: Quite Specific Media Group, 2008, ISBN 0896762629. Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500–1914, Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0-8109-6317-5; Ashelford, Jane.
In the 1650s, sleeves of the doublet ranged from above to below the elbow. The sleeves could be slashed, unslashed, or dividing into two parts and buttoned together. The length of the doublet reached the waist but by the late 1650s and early 1660s, the doublet became very short, only reaching the bottom of the rib cage, much like a bolero jacket.
A ruff from the early 17th century: detail from The Regentesses of St Elizabeth Hospital, Haarlem, by Verspronck A ruff from the 1620s. A ruff is an item of clothing worn in Western, Central and Northern Europe, as well as Spanish America, from the mid-16th century to the mid-17th century.
Frans Hals' Laughing Cavalier (in the Wallace Collection) wears a slashed doublet, wide reticella lace collar and cuffs, and a broadbrimmed hat, 1624. Fashion in the period 1600–1650 in Western clothing is characterized by the disappearance of the ruff in favour of broad lace or linen collars. Waistlines rose through the period for both men ...
Italian youth wears striped hose, a doublet with puffed upper sleeves, and a voluminous cloak, 1510. The Swiss Guard at the Vatican wear full-skirted giornea or jerkins and full sleeves over low-necked shirts or chemises, 1512. Unknown man wears a doublet with slashed sleeves and an overgown with a gray fur collar.
Further shortening of the cote or doublet fashion resulted in more prominence of the genitals; this area would then be covered with a triangular material called a codpiece. [3] Most of what is known about the cut, fit, and materials used for Renaissance codpieces is through portraits, clothing inventories, receipts for payments and tailor ...
When very short doublets were in fashion, codpieces were added to cover the front opening. By the 16th century, hose had separated into two garments: upper hose or breeches and nether hose or stockings. From the mid-16th to early 17th centuries, a variety of styles of hose were in fashion. Popular styles included:
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