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In rock climbing, an anchor can be any device or method for attaching a climber, rope, or load to a climbing surface—typically rock, ice, steep dirt, or a building—either permanently or temporarily. The intention of an anchor is case-specific but is usually for fall protection, primarily fall arrest and fall restraint.
Bowline on a bight: Used for equalizing anchors. Stopper Knots Stevedore knot (also known as Double figure eight): The Stevedore knot is tied at the end of a rope to prevent the end from unraveling, slipping through another knot, or passing back through a hole, block, or belay/rappel device.
Uses include creating friction prusik knots for ascending or gripping fixed climbing ropes, usually using thinner approximately 5–6 mm cord, or for attaching to, and equalizing forces across, multiple fixed anchors points, [15] such as when setting up abseil or belay anchors on multi-pitch climbing routes, usually using thicker approximately ...
A sling is an item of climbing equipment consisting of a tied or sewn loop of webbing. These can be wrapped around sections of rock, hitched to other pieces of equipment, or tied directly to a tensioned line using a Prusik style knot. They may be used as anchors, to extend an anchor to reduce rope drag, in anchor equalization, or to climb a ...
A double figure-eight loop, (also known as a bunny ears, or a dog eared loop) is a type of knot that forms two parallel loops, and resembles the figure-eight loop. [1]It is frequently used in climbing and caving as an easily untie-able knot that is capable of being attached to two bolts and equalised.
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The load on the sling is the same in each example. For the V arrangement, the anchor force is equal to the tension in the sling, but for the triangle the anchor force is greater than the sling tension. Aside from the magnification of forces, the death triangle violates several best practices for building climbing anchors, including
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