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A black morning coat with matching black waistcoat is the most formal option, [19] [20] being worn for Court, [20] funerals, [21] memorial services, [22] civic dress [23] and diplomatic dress (replacing or supplementing Court Dress), with academic dress, or in government use in America.
The spencer, dating from the 1790s, was originally a woollen outer tail-coat with the tails omitted. It was worn as a short waist-length, double-breasted, man's jacket. It was originally named after George Spencer, 2nd Earl Spencer (1758–1834), who is reported to have had a tail-coat adapted after its tails were burned by coals from a fire. [1]
The waistcoats worn with white-and black-tie are different from standard daytime single-breasted waistcoats, being much lower in cut (with three buttons or four buttons, where all are fastened). The much larger expanse of shirt compared to a daytime waistcoat allows more variety of form, with "U" or "V" shapes possible, and there is large ...
A vest replaces the waistcoat at this time, they were still very decorative with no collar. A pardessus for men was a large, black formal cape with a yoke across the shoulder line. A chesterfield coat was a calf-length, fur-lined coat, with a fur collar, cuffs and lapels. There was also no waistline seam.
The doublet was thigh length, hip length or waist length and worn over the shirt or drawers. Like the pourpoint , its ancestor, the doublet was used by soldiers [ 4 ] in the 15th and 16th centuries to facilitate the wearing of the brigandine , breastplate , cuirass and plackart which had to cut into the waist in order to shift their weights ...
Manet's unidentified man wears a tie secured with a jewel at the neck, a shawl-collared waistcoat, and a contrasting coat, 1860. George Augustus Sala wears an overcoat with black velvet collar, wide lapels, and deep cuffs over a frock coat, waistcoat, and tweed trousers. He wears leather gloves and carries a top hat. c. 1860–65.
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