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Diamond proportions and facets, for the round brilliant cut. The modern round brilliant-cut was developed by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919. The ideal proportions are 100% diameter, 53% table, 43.1% pavilion and 16.2% crown. The girdle and culet (if any—not part of Tolkowsky's original design) are cut from the ideal brilliant.
The most popular of diamond cuts is the modern round brilliant, whose 57 facets arrangements and proportions have been perfected by both mathematical and empirical analysis. Also popular are the fancy cuts, which come in a variety of shapes, many of which were derived from the round brilliant. A diamond's cut is evaluated by trained graders ...
Marcel Tolkowsky found that if a diamond was cut too deep or shallow then light would escape out the sides or bottom of the diamond, resulting in a loss of brilliance (white light reflected up through the top of a diamond), fire (colored light reflected from within a diamond), and sparkle (combination of fire and brilliance). [4]
"Ideal" round brilliant diamonds should not have a depth percentage greater than 62.5%. Another quick indication is the overall diameter. Typically a round brilliant 1.0-carat (200 mg) diamond should have a diameter of about 6.5 mm (0.26 in).
Diamond cutting, as well as overall processing, is concentrated in a few cities around the world. The main diamond trading centers are Antwerp, Tel Aviv, and Dubai from where roughs are sent to the main processing centers of India and China. [3] Diamonds are cut and polished in Surat, India and the Chinese cities of Guangzhou and Shenzhen. [4]
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