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I need some AGS fuses for my 170 which are very hard to find. I bought some (I thought) from Yingling using the P/N S1091 (I found an old thread on the 170 site saying this was the P/N for AGS fuses). You must buy them in a pack of 5, the price is about $10, which I thought wasn't too bad. Then I found out that it's $10 PER FUSE.
All original wiring was removed and will be replaced with modern Teflon coated wires. Fuses are replaced Klixon breaker-switches. Whelen tip strobes were installed to help to be seen. Interior panel lighting is a combination of dim-able self-lit, post lamps and a LED light strip under the eyebrow of the panel. Radios
23. Fuses. Breakers are expensive and prone to fail. Vertical power is expensive. Blade fuses are super reliable and you can get ones that light up when they fail. Like I said, one of the most time consuming parts to building an airplane is the decision making and research. It's worse than building a house in my opinion.....
Best not ground them at the wing tip. Run a separate ground wire back through the wings, then behind the panel, preferably to a single point grounding bus. If your going to add any more electric stuff to your airplane, install a good buss bar in a convenient location and get into the habit of running all your ground wires back to it.
Mine is a standard Cessna pull switch wired off the buss, and wired to separate circuit breakers for com txp gps & horizon. Actually, the main reason for a separate avionics bus is to protect the sensitive innards of your expensive radios.
The key West has simple wiring instructions. One diagram with a battery in the system and another diagram without a battery. Accessories can be powered directly from the positive + output post on the key West or from a Positive electrical Buss if you run a battery.
I recall when my IA installed it, we discussed the split master, and he said that the only time to operate them separately was to kill the feed from the alternator if it should ever malfunction. He also installed an avionics master at the same time, along with a separate sub-panel to replace the fuses with circuit breakers.
I used to do that and it worked, for a while. I stripped out one gear motor doing so, but that was while I had the wiring wrong to to the breaker buss, my bad, now wired correctly in a similar situation the breaker would pop before over stressing the motor. I also had an incident on my old steel ramp from the hangar to the "runway", I snagged a ...
(1) There must be one spare of each rating or 50 percent spare fuses of each rating, whichever is greater; and (2) The spare fuse(s) must be readily accessible to any required pilot. [Doc. No. 4080, 29 FR 17955, Dec. 18, 1964; 30 FR 258, Jan. 9, 1965, as amended by Amdt. 23-20, 42 FR 36969, July 18, 1977; Amdt. 23-43, 58 FR 18976, Apr. 9, 1993
Obviously that wasn't your issue, but a blown CB that isn't part of the airplane's power buss may be related. Many CBs that are part of an individual box are really minimal, so some transient voltage that pushes its limit from time to time will eventually cause it to pop--or if it's a fuse, to blow.