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You should be able to crank the setscrew down hard, then remove it, remove the U-joint, and see the mark it left on the shaft; it should leave a mark even on a pretty hard shaft. Use paint or dye on the tip if you have to. You might need a longer setscrew, maybe with a different tip shape. McMaster-Carr sells various types of setscrews.
Willys CJ5 Chassis. Saginaw 525 mounted on frame rail, Coupler 36 spline to round short shaft (required to pass under the Front cross member U-Joint with Built in Vibration Dampener DD both ends shaft that passes through the Motor mount and passes the header with abut 1/4" clearance, This joint I am concerned about, then to an Ididit Classic ...
The usual figure is 3/4" - 1". Used when measuring for drive shaft length. Bottom the front yoke (most times by itself, if it's on the driveshaft, let the shaft lay on a jackstand). Measure from center of front yoke cap to where the center of the rear yoke cap would be. Deduct 1".
Leave the tranny and engine together. Remove the bolts from the tranny mount and the motor mounts, take the torque tube apart from the tranny and pull. I could see if the engine was staying in the car and you wanted to pull just the tranny. You would then support the engine and then pull the tranny.
from Raeford, NC. Talking about modifying brake stuff, try this on as a project. I took a job on whereas I had to install a 400" sbc engine, and a switch pitch GM hydro transmission into a mid 60's Rolls Royce. The RR used a contraption like a Dodge parking brake at the extension housing of their GM Hydromatic trans.
Typically there is a "ching" noise as it is shifted from park to drive, or park to reverse. If it does this for a long time, it will vibrate horribly. Then it will fly apart. Sometimes the tailshaft bushing in the trans is bad, and that feels like a u joint. Broken trans mount and bad tires cause vibrations as well.
I would say that the Jag stuff is gonna end up being quite a bit cheaper than the dropped axle, but that's my neck of the woods. In our U-Pull it on any given day I've counted 8-12 pre 86 XJs to rob for suspesion stuff. Half price day that would come out to about 125.00 disc to disc. I just can't see how a dropped axle is gonna get that cheap.
3/4 to one inch is what I do....good point about checking that you can pull the rear ujoint out...the last one I did, was a tad long and it's a challenge to remove it. DDDenny said: ↑. With vehicle weight loaded on rear suspension. 1oldtimer said: ↑. The driveshaft shop always said 3/4", but 3/4" to 1" is what I do also.
A 1310/1330/1350 series U-Joint either comes with a hole tapped and drilled for a grease nipple or it does not... In drilling a hole into the body of a U-Joint (to insert a grease nipple), you weaken the body considerably. -Something like 30%. You might want to Select a non serviceable or solid bodied U-Joint for the strongest drive train ...
The 1984 to 87 F150 fully synchronised 3 speed with overdrive works wonderfully against the original engine and makes driving the Model A a pleasure. This transmission is usually found in a Ford pickup with a 6 cylinder engine and can easily be identified by the straight shifter coming out the top of the trans and no 4 speed PTO door.