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Hakama are worn with any type of kimono except yukata [2] (light cotton summer kimono generally worn for relaxing, for sleeping or at festivals or summer outings). While glossy black-and-white striped sendaihira hakama are usually worn with formal kimono, stripes in colours other than black, grey and white are worn with less formal wear.
A hakama is typically pleated at the waist and fastened by waist ties over the obi. Shorter kimono may be worn underneath the hakama for ease of movement. Hakama are worn in several budō arts such as aikido, kendo, iaidō and naginata. They are also worn by Miko in Shinto shrines. See also mo-bakama . Hakama boots (袴ブーツ)
The first instances of kimono-like garments in Japan were traditional Chinese clothing introduced to Japan via Chinese envoys in the Kofun period (300–538 CE; the first part of the Yamato period), through immigration between the two countries and envoys to the Tang dynasty court leading to Chinese styles of dress, appearance, and culture becoming extremely popular in Japanese court society. [1]
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The undergarments, not considered part of the jūnihitoe proper, are typically a two-piece cotton or silk garment. The kosode: a short red or white silk robe of ankle or lower calf length. The nagabakama: the formal version of hakama worn by noble women; a very long pleated red skirt, sewn with two split legs.
This style is sometimes referred to as yamabakama (lit. hakama for mountains) or nobakama (lit. hakama for fields). [4] Monpe was popularised as an informal uniform in Japan during the 1930s and 1940s, and Pacific War, because it used existing materials within the home and could be easily altered and repaired, and this was a necessity in wartime.
These obi are often made of thick cotton and are about 5 centimetres (2.0 in) wide. The martial arts obi are most often worn in the koma musubi style; in practice where the hakama is worn, the obi is tied in other ways. In many martial arts the colour of the obi signifies the wearer's skill level. Usually the colours start from the beginner's ...
Second-hand cotton cloth was, however, sold to rural farmers outside these areas, and was preferred over hemp fabric for its softness and heat-retaining properties. Weaving was largely a cottage industry until cotton cloth was first machine-made in Japan in the 1870s. [9] Tanmono are now often machine-woven.
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