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A threaded rod, also known as a stud, is a relatively long rod that is threaded on both ends; the thread may extend along the complete length of the rod. [1] They are designed to be used in tension. [2] Threaded rod in bar stock form is often called all-thread (ATR); other names include fully-threaded rod, redi-rod, continuously-threaded rod ...
The working strength of a tie rod is the product of the allowable working stress and the rod's minimum cross-sectional area. If threads are cut into a cylindrical rod, that minimum area occurs at the root of the thread. Often rods are upset (made thicker at the ends) so that the tie rod does not become weaker when threads are cut into it.
The length of a machine screw or bolt is indicated by an × and the length expressed in millimetres (e.g. M8-1.25×30 or M8×30). [citation needed] Tolerance classes defined in ISO 965-1 can be appended to these designations, if required (e.g. M500– 6g in external threads). External threads are designated by lowercase letter, g or h.
The standard designation for a UTS thread is a number indicating the nominal (major) diameter of the thread, followed by the pitch measured in threads per inch.For diameters smaller than 1 / 4 inch, the diameter is indicated by an integer number defined in the standard; for all other diameters, the inch figure is given.
Overall, I'd recommend using a tension rod that's suitable to hold whatever you plan to hang from it. If it's just going to hold a lightweight curtain, most tension rods should be fine.
Example (inch, coarse): For size 7 ⁄ 16 (this is the diameter of the intended screw in fraction form)-14 (this is the number of threads per inch; 14 is considered coarse), 0.437 in × 0.85 = 0.371 in. Therefore, a size 7 ⁄ 16 screw (7 ⁄ 16 ≈ 0.437) with 14 threads per inch (coarse) needs a tap drill with a diameter of about 0.371 inches.
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