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I wouldn't pay $350 for one. I'd rather find a used Marlin 336 in good condition that was made when Marlin still owned the company and built quality guns that would last a lifetime. And if I was lucky I might even find one in 35 Remington caliber since I already own a nice Winchester 94 in 30-30.
From the Marlin 336 wiki: The following table can be used to date the year of manufacture of a Marlin 336. It is also valid for determining most other Marlin firearm build dates from 1946 to the present. Marlin year of manufacture maybe determined from the following table of letter/numeral prefixs to the serial number: Date Prefix(s) 1946 C 1947 D
When I was looking for a 30-30 lever action, somewhere during my research I found that the W model was a cheaper version designed for walmart. Lower grade of wood, checkering was pressed instead of cut, etc. Walmart buys in volume directly from Marlin which cuts out one or two middlemen (and their associated profit).
General Firearms Forum. How can Walmart sell a Marlin 336W for $350. Jump to Latest
I'll add, typically, any of the Marlin(s) born 2009 or earlier will have the Marlin 'pedigree'. Here is a chart that can/will help determine what year the Marlin(s) are made. (Take the first two digits of the serial number, and subtract it from 100. Example: 00005xxx would be "00" = 2000.) In the example given, that's the serial number of my 1895G.
That will give you a good indication how much it's been shot, and how well it's been taken care of mechanical wise. On the older JM stamped Marlins look behind the hammer and look at the serial number. Subtract the first two numbers from 100 and that will tell you what year it is. I have a 1981 336 and love it.
I'm shopping for a used Marlin 336 30-30. My local pawnshop owner has a nice older one in (pre-safety) with a walnut stock that I am considering. I don't have the serial number yet, so don't know when it was made. Just wondering, though, what kinds of things to look for when sizing up a used 336.
Well, I have a Marlin 336. It is a 1976 model bought new by my dad in 1977. The stock was looking pretty faded, beat up, and scuffed. I decided it was time to try my hand at stock refinishing. I have been taking pictures of the steps except I forgot to take pictures during stripping/sanding.
Great choice on scope-- a low power weaver or leupold is perfect for the 336. So perfect in fact, iI would urge you to dump the idea of see through mounts. Part of the beauty of the low powered scope is having it mounted in low to medium mounts for fast target acquisition.
In addition, I find that the Skinner model I bought for my Marlin 1894 extends along top of the rifle action, interfering slightly with carrying the rifle bare handed (sharp corners). All that said, the Skinner is a fine sight and has the advantage of being mounted on rifles that do not have the drilled and tapped holes on the side like the ...