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I'm a hardwood guy doing a major reno on my own house and have a roofing question. My roofer has reccomended using peel and stick on some of the lower-sloped areas. This house is all hip and valleys, sloped from 3-5/12, with 1x6's for decking. Searching the web, this looks like a good product, however, I still have some questions -
gaf had a self adhering peel and stick product called liberty. ive never installed it myself but ive researched the product because someone was interested in me installing it on a flat roof. its an sbs self adhering membrane. it has a base sheet, ply sheet, and cap sheet. i wouldnt think you should have a hard time tearing this off the roof deck at all especially since the ply and cap sheet ...
I got a sample of mulehide self stick capsheet and the adhesive backing isn't that sticky at all. it's less sticky than a fedex shipping label, for example. I can't imagine how this would even create a good bond between the base sheet and cap sheet, much less directly on a plywood deck.
First off let us qualify what is a "rubber" roof. Around here if someone other than a commecial roofing contractor says "rubber" they are referring to modified bitumen. Modified bitumen actually is not rubber, although it has been affectionally called that since I got into roofing, and presumeably much longer before that. EPDM is actually rubber.
I used that GAF liberty peel and stick granular surfaced roofing once and I will never touch that **** again. Every roll was stretched at the edges during the manufacturing process or perhaps the pallets were stacked too high at the yard. The roof came out terrible as you can imagine. rippled edges like some weekend warrior had done it.
You have a good point about being able to cover existing peel-and-stick with another layer. Grace, in fact, recommends it for re-roofing. But many contractors like to tear off all existing layers in order to inspect the condition of the sheathing and make repairs if necessary--especially if there's evidence of roof leaks.
TORCH DOWN install your base sheet with metal button caps then install your cap sheet with heat via a flame from a torch. Miami Roofer Mike Sez... Yeah, I agree with Mr. Williams. Torchdown is torched, and if you've never torched - don't torch.Torchdown roofing is a skill.
Right now we are preparing a full roof underlayment of the PSU 30. Same surface as the UDL 30 in a peel and stick waterproofing. So far I like it a lot. Bought a full pallet and paid about $85/roll, so fair price too. Traction is unbeatable. I think it's even grippier wet, so long as there is no chance of slush, snow or ice.
GAF Liberty SBS problems. Install approx. 100 sq. of GAF self adhered Liberty base sheet and cap sheet over ISO insulation. Base sheet seams are failing and not adhering as specified. Many roof leaks, GAF has said materials are with-in their specification but was willing to change over to GAF APP membrane.
So what's left is the dormer roof and it starts on the back of my ridge and is 38' wide by 16' deep. It has an actual pitch of 1.8/12. I've repaired all bad decking and for underlayment have used ice and water guard (peel and stick). I plan to put down 1 x 4's perpendicular to "classic rib" metal sheets for roofing.