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Nishijin-ori fukuro obi showing a woven scene with aristocrats Detail of Nō robe from Nishijin, silk with gilded paper, Edo period. Nishijin-ori (西陣織, lit. ' Nishijin fabric ') is a traditional textile produced in the Nishijin (西陣) district of Kamigyō-ku in Kyoto, Japan.
An unlined (hitoe) kimono made from tsumugi, showing soft drape.Tsumugi (紬) is a traditional slub-woven silk fabric from Japan.It is a tabby weave material woven from yarn produced using silk noil, short-staple silk fibre (as opposed to material produced using longer, filament yarn silk fibres).
The fabrics that kimono are made from are classified in two categories within Japan. Gofuku (呉服) is the term used to indicate silk kimono fabrics, composed of the characters go (呉, the Japanese pronunciation of "Wu"), referring to the State of Wu in ancient China where silk weaving technology developed, and fuku (服, meaning "clothing").
Ōshima-tsumugi kimono are hugely valued for their detailed kasuri patterns and deep black color. They are known as one of the most expensive silk fabrics in Japan. [ 6 ] The cheapest piece costs about 300,000 yen per bolt, or tanmono, and the highest quality costs several million yen.
However, silk is still considered the ideal fabric for more formal kimono. [28] Kimono are typically 39–43 inches (990–1,090 mm) long with eight 14–15 inches (360–380 mm) wide pieces. [36] These pieces are sewn together to create the basic T-shape. Kimono are traditionally sewn by hand, a technique known as wasai. [36]
[12]: 80 Other items show that Japanese designers started printing designs influenced by the Indian patterns independently, [12]: 80–84 and that fabrics imported from France or Britain were also used to make kimono; ownership of these textiles would have signified both wealth and cultural taste, though the example found in the collection of a ...
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