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the old TV took my daughter and I to carry it out on the motorhome and the new TV weighs 12 lbs. so there is also a weight savings of about 60 lbs. There already was a 12 VDC cigarette lighter plug right there behind the old tv so all I had to do is buy a 12 volt accessory plug and put it on the TV power cord.
In my Tioga class C I have a 19 in. Model 1907 Jensen tv that operates on 12 volt and 110 AC. Unlike other rv'ers, I do not like inverters. I also have a 12 volt DVD player hooked up to the tv. I can use both for about 4 hrs. before the house batteries (two 6 volt batteries) need charging.
The TV is AC and DC compatible, but I will need to find a DC power source near the TV to plug it into. There is a radio nearby in the adjacent cupboard that I may be able to piggyback power from. May 30, 2021
Perhaps the TV is expected to run from 120 VAC using a small 12 volt inverter somewhere. If the inverter is not working, the TV will only work on when you have 120 VAC available. Just a guess as I am not familiar with your setup. But I assume the TV is a 120 VAC only TV. That means the inverter needs the 12 VDC to make the TV work from battery.
I switched both our TVs to Samsung 12 volt TVs, bought SONY Blu-Ray players that run off 12 volts for each, got a nice JVC stereo that runs off 12 volts, and got 12 volt power cords for our computers. No inverters needed any more. Much more efficient.
12 volt power is sent up the coax to the preamp located in the antenna's plastic housing - the circuitry behind the wall plate is just the power supply and a signal splitter. The warning about only using the wall plate with an amplified antenna means don't use it with a conventional TV antenna that's not designed to have 12 volts on it's coax.
Now the flip side. And I disagree with these folks but the voltage in an RV is not 12. it's 13.6 normally and can go to 14.6 Some folks claim that is too much for a 12 volt TV. Samsung's are 14 volt and work well on 12.. at least the one I have is/does. That said Samsung has gone to SMART Tv's and .. I am not a fan of privacy invading televisions.
(Some TV's that use a wall block plugin can be run directly on 12V as the block is simply a transformer/rectifier from 120V to 12V DC.) BTW, you can more efficiently charge many USB devices directly from 12V using a small USB outlet that can be plugged into cigarette lighter type sockets either in the car/truck or wired into a trailer.
It really doesn't make much difference if the TV is powered through a small inverter or connected directly to the 12 volt system, except the 12 volt RV electrical system really isn't 12 volts - it can range as low as 10 volts when the battery is fully discharged or as high as 14.5 volts when the converter is running and charging the batteries.
120v AC is easy. Standard household electrical, National Electric Code. Cable, usually Romex™ or similar, is 14 awg for the 15 amp circuits, 12 awg for the 20 amp circuits (usually just the Air Conditioner in an RV) and 10 awg for the 30 amp shore or generator power coming to the power panel from either the power inlet or the genny.