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This enabled the use of cotton in clothing for everyone in the former holdings of the Tsugaru, and embroidering dyed indigo cloth with white cotton thread became more common. As the access to materials increased, competition to design the most beautiful patterns rose, with an estimate of over 300 different kogin-zashi patterns being created.
Many sashiko patterns were derived from Chinese designs, but just as many were developed by native Japanese embroiderers; for example, the style known as kogin-zashi, which generally consists of diamond-shaped patterns in horizontal rows, is a distinctive variety of sashiko that was developed in Aomori Prefecture.
There has also been a development in free hand machine embroidery, new machines have been designed that allow for the user to create free-motion embroidery which has its place in textile arts, quilting, dressmaking, home furnishings and more. Users can use the embroidery software to digitize the digital embroidery designs.
The term is derived from the Japanese term "boroboro", meaning something tattered or repaired. [2] The term 'boro' typically refers to cotton, linen and hemp materials, mostly hand-woven by peasant farmers, that have been stitched or re-woven together to create an often many-layered material used for warm, practical clothing.
The colourful patterns and designs that are embroidered resulted in the name "Nakshi Kantha," [6] which was derived from the Bengali word "naksha," referring to artistic patterns. [7] Early kanthas had a white background accented with red, blue, and black embroidery; later, yellow, green, pink, and other colours were also included.
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To keep the batting from shifting, a patchwork or pieced quilt is often quilted by hand or machine using a running stitch in order to outline the individual shapes that make up the pieced top, or the quilting stitches may be random or highly ordered overall patterns that contrast with the patchwork composition.