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The long, tight sleeves of the early 17th century grew shorter, fuller, and looser. A common style of the 1620s and 1630s was the virago sleeve, a full, slashed sleeve gathered into two puffs by a ribbon or other trim above the elbow. In France and England, lightweight bright or pastel-coloured satins replaced dark, heavy fabrics.
The cotta was a lighter-weight undergown for summer wear. A sideless overgown called the giornea was worn with the gamurra or cotta. Toward the end of the period, sleeves were made in sections or panels and slashed, allowing the full chemise sleeves below to be pulled through in puffs along the arm, at the shoulder, and at the elbow.
Portrait of Anne Boleyn, wife of Henry VIII of England, depicting Anne in c. 1533, wearing a French hood trimmed with pearls, and a square-necked black velvet gown decorated with the same pearls and embroidery, and furred sleeves. Dress in Holland, Belgium, and Flanders, now part of the Empire, retained a high, belted waistline longest.
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Woman wearing a one-piece bliaut and cloak or mantle, c. 1200, west door of Angers Cathedral.. The bliaut or bliaud is an overgarment that was worn by both sexes from the eleventh to the thirteenth century in Western Europe, featuring voluminous skirts and horizontal puckering or pleating across a snugly fitted under bust abdomen.
Apple TV+'s "Palm Royale," premiering Wednesday, is a loose adaptation of Juliet McDaniel's 2018 novel that's been re-created into diverting television. 'Palm Royale' is a brilliant, star-studded ...
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