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We had no access either from underneath. He measured, measured and measured the entire bath drain assembly. Soldered it on and then lowered the tub in. He did it and I was amazed. I was able to lift the plywood from under the floor but it was about 3 feet away. We filled the tub and watched it drain from the panel.
If you are installing standardized tub this is pretty simple. Rough-in instruction should give clear measurements. Tub drain/over flow pipe will be connected to waste lines and in place. Drop your tub in place. you'll need a special drain tightening tool designed for the type of setup you have. Once the bottom is snug and fit.
I'm installing a free standing basin style bathtub. The abs drain/trap has been roughed in. The bathroom floor is finished/tiled and the room below the bathroom has a decorative ceiling and I was asked not to cut an access through it. Therefore, once the tub is in place there is no access to connect the drain (no access to tighten the trap ...
P. plumbdoc. 24 posts · Joined 2009. #4 · Jan 26, 2010. you are gonna have to build the waste and overflow out of ABS or PVC on the tub then after glue sets pull it off of tub then set trap in the ground for the waste and overflow and last thing you do is set the tub back in and reconnect drain and overflow.:yes: A lot easier said than done.
Also, you can leave the strainer out of the drain while assembling then use any method you find convenient or can figure out to pull the pipe from the inside up and into the shower drain bottom (e.g. piece of metal slightly longer than diameter of pipe that has off center hole to which a wire is affixed and drop the short end into the whole ...
I'm installing 2 new tubs in back to back bathrooms as shown in the figure below. I installed Tub 1 and used all sch 40 PVC glued tub drain fittings because I had easy access to the existing drain without Tub 2 installed yet, and I was able to cut and adjust the drain location for the new tub measurements.
Then grease up the threads and gasket with thick silicone grease, such as Molykote 111, or plumber's grease. Put a big bead of putty under the flange of the drain, to be squished. Start the threads of the drain. Shove some more putty around the threads and push down into the area of the old bottom gasket, and tighten that slowly drain into place.
@c_g_lima, the problem with replacing the entire drain pipe all the way to the trap is that I can't seem to access the trap. I tried digging down further, the foundation concrete pretty much closes off at the bottom, I don't seem to have access further down without busting up concrete at the bottom.
For some reason (probably cost) few tubs have shut-off valves installed. Access is always from an adjoining room or the ceiling/floor below. If needing to access through and adjoining room, buying an access panel, and installing it for future use, is always a good idea.
I want to correct the issue by removing the existing P-trap and modifying the setup to have a direct drain. So, instead of having the P-trap below the overflow, it will be below the tub's drain & the overflow will go to the tub drain. I'll have to cut a hole in the floor to access the tub's drain (it's 1st floor on house on blocks-- below is ...