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Most designs can be defeated using a hardened removal tool which uses a left-hand self-cutting thread to grip the locking nut, although more advanced designs have a spinning outer ring to frustrate such techniques. An older technique for removal was to simply hammer a slightly smaller socket over the locking wheel nut to be able to remove it.
Ideally, the nuts (or bolts) should be tightened with a torque wrench. Lug wrenches are much less expensive because they lack the ability to measure or limit the force used. Installing a wheel with a lug wrench thus requires a bit of rough guessing about proper tightness. Excessive force can strip threads or make the nuts very difficult to remove.
The nuts themselves may have a mechanism that retains them inside the wheel once it is removed from the hub, to prevent loss and further streamline wheel changes. FIA rules also mandate an additional locking mechanism be included in F1 centerlock hubs, which manufacturers have implemented in different ways. [12]
A car hub showing a castellated nut cover and split pin (near center) Split pins are frequently used to secure other fasteners, e.g. clevis pins, or to secure a castellated nut, [6] or, infrequently, as a low-tech shear pin. Split pins are cheaper but less reusable than linchpins, and provide less strength but easier to install/remove than ...
A screw extractor held in a tap wrench. A screw extractor is a tool for removing broken or seized screws.There are two types: one has a spiral flute structure, commonly called an easy out after the trademarked name EZ-Out; [clarification needed] the other has a straight flute structure.
The torque limiting clutch is the part of the tool that limits the amount of torque being applied to the fastener at the receiving end of the tool. On simpler tools the clutch settings may be marked with arbitrary numbers (e.g., from 1 for the lowest available torque to 20 for the highest, without necessarily having a linear relationship with ...
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