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  2. Particle velocity - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Particle_velocity

    Particle velocity (denoted v or SVL) is the velocity of a particle (real or imagined) in a medium as it transmits a wave. The SI unit of particle velocity is the metre per second (m/s). In many cases this is a longitudinal wave of pressure as with sound , but it can also be a transverse wave as with the vibration of a taut string.

  3. Airy wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory

    The Stokes drift velocity ū S, which is the particle drift after one wave cycle divided by the period, can be estimated using the results of linear theory: [38] u ¯ S = 1 2 σ k a 2 cosh ⁡ 2 k ( z + h ) sinh 2 ⁡ k h e k , {\displaystyle {\bar {\mathbf {u} }}_{S}={\tfrac {1}{2}}\sigma ka^{2}{\frac {\cosh 2k(z+h)}{\sinh ^{2}kh}}\mathbf {e ...

  4. Acoustic wave equation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acoustic_wave_equation

    In physics, the acoustic wave equation is a second-order partial differential equation that governs the propagation of acoustic waves through a material medium resp. a standing wavefield. The equation describes the evolution of acoustic pressure p or particle velocity u as a function of position x and time t. A simplified (scalar) form of the ...

  5. Wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave

    Wave velocity is a general concept, of various kinds of wave velocities, for a wave's phase and speed concerning energy (and information) propagation. The phase velocity is given as: =, where: v p is the phase velocity (with SI unit m/s), ω is the angular frequency (with SI unit rad/s),

  6. List of equations in wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_equations_in_wave...

    The phase velocity is the rate at which the phase of the wave propagates in space. The group velocity is the rate at which the wave envelope, i.e. the changes in amplitude, propagates. The wave envelope is the profile of the wave amplitudes; all transverse displacements are bound by the envelope profile.

  7. Wave equation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_equation

    The wave equation is a second-order linear partial differential equation for the description of waves or standing wave fields such as mechanical waves (e.g. water waves, sound waves and seismic waves) or electromagnetic waves (including light waves). It arises in fields like acoustics, electromagnetism, and fluid dynamics.

  8. Stokes drift - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stokes_drift

    For a pure wave motion in fluid dynamics, the Stokes drift velocity is the average velocity when following a specific fluid parcel as it travels with the fluid flow. For instance, a particle floating at the free surface of water waves , experiences a net Stokes drift velocity in the direction of wave propagation .

  9. One-way wave equation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/One-way_wave_equation

    A one-way wave equation is a first-order partial differential equation describing one wave traveling in a direction defined by the vector wave velocity. It contrasts with the second-order two-way wave equation describing a standing wavefield resulting from superposition of two waves in opposite directions (using the squared scalar wave velocity).