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Woman's stays c. 1730–1740. Silk plain weave with supplementary weft-float patterning, stiffened with whalebone. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.63.24.5. [1]The corset is a supportive undergarment for women, dating, in Europe, back several centuries, evolving as fashion trends have changed and being known, depending on era and geography, as a pair of bodies, stays and corsets.
Corset from 1873. The spoon busk is covered in fabric but shown shaded pink, for clarity. The spoon busk was a specialised kind of busk—the rigid element of a corset placed at the centre front. As its name implies, it was shaped like a spoon, with the bottom part of the busk widening and taking a dished form.
Victorian corsets also had a buttoned or hooked front opening called a busk. If the corset was worn loosely, it was possible to leave the lacing as adjusted and take the corset on and off using the front opening. (If the corset is worn snugly, this method will damage the busk if the lacing is not significantly loosened beforehand).
For long-term use, e.g., by tightlacing or waist training, corsets must be made to exact standards and are best custom-fitted and designed for the individual wearer. Single weakness or flaws tend to be visible. Some custom-made gowns have corsets built into the design; a talented dressmaker may also be a skilled corset-maker.
This style of corset quickly evolved into the beautifully complex early Edwardian style corsets. These corsets from 1901–1908 relied heavily on the complex cut of the pattern to create and accentuate the shape. Boning was used wholly for the support of the shape created by the cut of the fabric.
The hourglass became the iconic corset shape. They are featured in the media; often the image of the corset shown is of a "woman clutching a bedpost while their maid pulls and pulls at the corset strings". [2] The hourglass corset accentuated slim waists and broadened the bust, shoulders and hips.
The corsets from the Great Exhibition in 1851 are in the Museum of London. [1] In 1860, she became a member of the Royal Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures & Commerce (RSA). By 1864, she had filed 24 patents. [2] She died on 2 August 1888 at Cambridge Lodge, St Leonard's East Sheen in Surrey. Her effects were valued at £6452 ...
The great farthingale appears to have been worn at an angle ("low before and high behind") which visually elongated the wearer's torso while shortening her legs. The angle was likely created by the use of bodies (corsets) or boned bodices with long centre fronts that pushed down on the farthingale, tilting it.
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