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  2. Longshore drift - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longshore_drift

    Not only do ports and harbours pose a threat to longshore drift in the short term, they also pose a threat to shoreline evolution. [2] The major influence, which the creation of a port or harbour can have on longshore drift, is the alteration of sedimentation patterns, which in turn may lead to accretion and/or erosion of a beach or coastal system.

  3. Spit (landform) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spit_(landform)

    A spit (cognate with the word for a rotisserie bar) or sandspit is a deposition bar or beach landform off coasts or lake shores. It develops in places where re-entrance occurs, such as at a cove's headlands, by the process of longshore drift by longshore currents. The drift occurs due to waves meeting the beach at an oblique angle, moving ...

  4. Coastal geography - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coastal_geography

    The endless cycle of swash and backwash and resulting beach drift can be observed on all beaches. This may differ between coasts. Rhossili in Wales is a low-energy shoreline. Probably the most important effect is longshore drift (LSD)(Also known as Littoral Drift), the process by which sediment is continuously moved along beaches by wave action ...

  5. Beach evolution - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beach_evolution

    This solution entails beach nourishment (creating recreational area by filling with sand), and further beach expansion and prevention of beach erosion caused by longshore drift and coastal development hazards. The design makes use of a shorter groyne slightly inclined toward the beach in the same direction as downdrift, with a series of ...

  6. Coastal management - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coastal_management

    Most revetments do not significantly interfere with transport of longshore drift. Since the wall absorbs energy instead of reflecting, the surf progressively erodes and destroys the revetment; therefore, maintenance is ongoing, as determined by the structural material and product quality.

  7. Coastal morphodynamics - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coastal_morphodynamics

    Depending on beach state, near bottom currents show variations in the relative dominance of motions due to: incident waves, subharmonic oscillations, infragravity oscillations, and mean longshore and rip currents. On reflective beaches, incident waves and subharmonic edge waves are dominant.

  8. Beach nourishment - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beach_nourishment

    Beach nourishment device Ship engaged in nourishment operations off Sandbridge, Virginia Beach, in 2013. Beach nourishment (also referred to as beach renourishment, [2] beach replenishment, or sand replenishment) describes a process by which sediment, usually sand, lost through longshore drift or erosion is replaced from

  9. Radiation stress - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radiation_stress

    The resulting longshore sediment transport shapes the beaches, and may result in beach erosion or accretion. In fluid dynamics , the radiation stress is the depth-integrated – and thereafter phase - averaged – excess momentum flux caused by the presence of the surface gravity waves , which is exerted on the mean flow .