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  2. Waves and shallow water - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

    When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. [1] The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp ...

  3. Green's law - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green's_law

    Propagation of shoaling long waves, showing the variation of wavelength and wave height with decreasing water depth.. In fluid dynamics, Green's law, named for 19th-century British mathematician George Green, is a conservation law describing the evolution of non-breaking, surface gravity waves propagating in shallow water of gradually varying depth and width.

  4. Wave shoaling - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_shoaling

    When waves enter shallow water they slow down. Under stationary conditions, the wave length is reduced. The energy flux must remain constant and the reduction in group (transport) speed is compensated by an increase in wave height (and thus wave energy density).

  5. Wave height - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_height

    The sine wave is a specific case of a periodic wave. In random waves at sea, when the surface elevations are measured with a wave buoy, the individual wave height H m of each individual wave—with an integer label m, running from 1 to N, to denote its position in a sequence of N waves—is the difference in elevation between a wave crest and ...

  6. Swell (ocean) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swell_(ocean)

    The significant wave height is also the value a "trained observer" (e.g. from a ship's crew) would estimate from visual observation of a sea state. Given the variability of wave height, the largest individual waves are likely to be somewhat less than twice the significant wave height. [2] The phases of an ocean surface wave: 1.

  7. Wave nonlinearity - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_nonlinearity

    Generally, skewed waves have a short and high wave crest and a long and flat wave trough. [6] A skewed wave shape results in larger orbital velocities under the wave crest compared to smaller orbital velocities under the wave trough. For waves having the same velocity variance, the ones with higher skewness result in a larger net sediment ...

  8. Today's Wordle Hint, Answer for #1275 on Sunday, December 15 ...

    www.aol.com/todays-wordle-hint-answer-1275...

    SPOILERS BELOW—do not scroll any further if you don't want the answer revealed. The New York Times. Today's Wordle Answer for #1275 on Sunday, December 15, 2024.

  9. Shallow water equations - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallow_water_equations

    Shallow-water equations can be used to model Rossby and Kelvin waves in the atmosphere, rivers, lakes and oceans as well as gravity waves in a smaller domain (e.g. surface waves in a bath). In order for shallow-water equations to be valid, the wavelength of the phenomenon they are supposed to model has to be much larger than the depth of the ...