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Its popularity mirrored the frock coat, which replaced the tailcoat as day wear in the 1850s. The frock coat, often attributed to the result of the fashion influence of the Regency dandy George Bryan 'Beau' Brummell , was almost universally black, and was worn with waistcoat and trousers, which could be of any colour.
The British Warm first appeared around 1914 as a military greatcoat for British officers. It was made famous, however, by Winston Churchill. [4] According to Scottish clothmakers Crombie, the term "British Warm" was coined to describe their version of the coat worn by around 10% of British soldiers and officers. [5]
Martingale (US Women's Army Corps winter overcoat, WWII era) A martingale (also martingale belt [1]) is a strap on a dress or a half-belt on a coat or a jacket, [2] [3] used to adjust the fullness of the cloth. The martingale is typically attached to the piece of clothing by buttons. [4]
A frock coat is a formal men's coat characterised by a knee-length skirt cut all around the base just above the knee, popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s–1910s). It is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at the back and some features unusual in post-Victorian dress.
The Ulster coat, a working daytime overcoat initially with a cape top covering sleeves, but then without; it evolved to the polo coat after losing its cape. The Inverness coat, a formal evening or working day overcoat, with winged sleeves. The Paletot coat, a coat shaped with side-bodies, as a slightly less formal alternative to the frock overcoat.
The Chesterfield coat, with its heavy waist suppression using a waist seam, gradually replaced the over-frock coat during the second half of the 19th century as a choice for a formal overcoat, and survived as a coat of choice over the progression from frock coat everyday wear to the introduction of the lounge suit, but remained principally associated with formal morning dress and white tie.
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