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The timing calculator as far as a formula just merely shows how much fuel is injected BTDC vs ATDC. The old rule of diesel is 50%, meaning 50% before TDC and 50% after. However this simply doesn't take in effect the real world results. You can't compute the point of ignition which is the fundamental factor in timing the engine.
Before I waste a bunch of time and potentially screw something up I have an MCC timing calculator for 2010 and up. Is there a difference in that and the 2007.5-2009 calculator? If so could someone please let me know where to find one?
Everyone wants the perfect stance when shopping for new wheels and tires; we want to ensure you get that. Check out these killer calculators to determine backspacing, offsets, bolt patterns, and how much your new setup will ‘stick out’—plus more—when shopping for new wheels and
As for timing: Find a timing calculator on line. You have to use a Timing Calculator. Once you have one , decide how much before TDC you want the fuel shot and the calculator will give timing values. It does this by comparing your current duration table /timing table and your input of how much fuel BTDC you want to inject.
Re: Warp tuning question. Originally Posted by KeepEmRollin14. If Im tuning in warp and need to check my injection timing for main can I copy table into efilive and use the timing calc to check where my inj timing is falling in the specified ranges, i.e. 50/50 split? Should the 50/50 split be as close as possible to 50/50 or can it be say 54/46 ...
Just got a new set of 35s and having a hard time finding the sweet spot. The tires have been road force balanced and fit on new 20x9 wheels as well as a fresh alignment. Currentley i have 65psi x4 and they have a good bit of bounce and wander with the imprefections of the road. What are some of your comfortable psi ranges unloaded and loaded. Keep in mind these are mud tires. Im thinking 50f ...
yes the 4wd switch says 4 lock and 4 low. My old 1500 had it labeled as 4hi and 4 low. 4wd lock simply means locked in full time 4wd as apposed to 4wd auto. Agree you will want to look into adding the limited slip rear differential or lockers in place of the conventional.
If a customer wants the best performing 68RFE behind a tuned Cummins, I recommend two supporting mods. A high performance valve body and an ultra low stall triple disc torque converter from Revmax. Those two items make a 68RFE perform like it should. We tune for Revmax and we have zero issues with their products.
So I have been doing research on regearing my truck. I have stock 3.42s and 35" tires, I don't tow anything super heavy right now just my 21' center console but you never know what the future may bring. I don't plan on going to any bigger tires. My reason for wanting to regear is the longevity of the powertrain, and maybe better torque. Everything I'm reading has everyone e running 37" tires ...
Re: 68RFE Rebuild Time. 2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch.