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Hello I accidentally arced my battery charger that worked yesterday. I hear the transformer humming, but no voltage at the leads. I think the problem may be the disc diodes, but am not sure. I would like to repair this as cheap as possible even if the circuit becomes changed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Nigel the statements you said about a charger not needing a capacitor and the definition of the three basic requirements for a battery charger only apply to flooded lead acid batteries, that's a pretty important qualification which is why I mention it, if you try to charge anything other than a flooded lead acid battery using this better have a ...
The replacement rectifier for that charger is discontinued. I understand that it is old technology and not very elegant, but the new chargers in that size are not the cheapest things around and I dislike how the new chargers are unable to charge a completely dead battery. I would like to resurrect this charger, if possible.
Hello to all, I´m repairing a Victron Energy 24V / 50A battery charger, in fact I repaired it already before and when they connect it to a new block of batteries the unit damaged again. On the first repair I replaced the NTC, 12A fuse and bridge diode at Vac input side, then two switching...
Thanks Grossel, You are really kind to spend time to reveal the path, at this point I don't think to be able to go ahead (I'm not an electronic/engineer guy) and don't want waste other people time, I thought that the faulty battery blew the R2 resistor, I didn't find any fuse inside the charger and I thought the R2 was working like a fuse, sounds it's more complicated to me and as you said It ...
Car batteries are designed to be (quickly) recharged to a specific charge cutoff voltage, and then floated at a specific voltage. In your car, the charging current is in the neighborhood of 30 amperes (if the battery wants it). Since car batteries aren't really designed for continuous charging, a trickle charger must be designed carefully.
After a careful study of all the info in your posts, I feel that you may better replace the battery. However, give a try to recover the battery by charging at say 0.5 amp current for a 48 hour period. If it recovers, you may test discharge and try to recharge at 14 hour rate or as prescribed by the battery manufacturer.
V311B battery tester measured my SBS190 capacity at 95Ah. Run a real discharge test with 12VDC/110VAC inverter with 2-2.5A and got 30Ah from it. Acquired car battery that tested with 9Ah left out of original 95Ah. Run Nexpeak repair overnight and it measures 25Ah now, internal resistance also dropped from 20 to 10mOhm.
My settings for a car battery would be: 14.5Voc and 3Amax. It takes about 24hours to fully charge a 70Ah battery. If your supply does not do over-current gracefully (it overheats or blows fuses), then you have two options: The first is to measure the battery terminal voltage before connecting to the supply. Say it is 12.0V (mostly discharged).
If the battery is not fully charged you can use much higher voltages without damage because the charging reaction takes precedence over any over-charge chemical reactions until the battery is fully charged. This is why a battery charger can operate at 14.4 to 15 volts during the bulk-charge phase of the charge cycle.