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  2. Surface tension - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_tension

    h is the depth of the puddle in centimeters or meters. γ is the surface tension of the liquid in dynes per centimeter or newtons per meter. g is the acceleration due to gravity and is equal to 980 cm/s 2 or 9.8 m/s 2; ρ is the density of the liquid in grams per cubic centimeter or kilograms per cubic meter

  3. Dispersion (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)

    For a fixed water depth, long waves (with large wavelength) propagate faster than shorter waves. In the left figure, it can be seen that shallow water waves, with wavelengths λ much larger than the water depth h, travel with the phase velocity [2] = with g the acceleration by gravity and c p the phase speed. Since this shallow-water phase ...

  4. Drag (physics) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_(physics)

    Two types of drag are relevant for all objects: Form drag, which is caused by the pressure exerted on the object as the fluid flow goes around the object. Form drag is determined by the cross-sectional shape and area of the body. Skin friction drag (or viscous drag), which is caused by friction between the fluid and the surface of the object ...

  5. Green's law - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green's_law

    Propagation of shoaling long waves, showing the variation of wavelength and wave height with decreasing water depth.. In fluid dynamics, Green's law, named for 19th-century British mathematician George Green, is a conservation law describing the evolution of non-breaking, surface gravity waves propagating in shallow water of gradually varying depth and width.

  6. Gravity of Earth - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gravity_of_Earth

    If the Earth had a constant density ρ, the mass would be M(r) = (4/3)πρr 3 and the dependence of gravity on depth would be =. The gravity g′ at depth d is given by g′ = g(1 − d/R) where g is acceleration due to gravity on the surface of the Earth, d is depth and R is the radius of the Earth.

  7. Shallow water equations - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallow_water_equations

    Shallow-water equations can be used to model Rossby and Kelvin waves in the atmosphere, rivers, lakes and oceans as well as gravity waves in a smaller domain (e.g. surface waves in a bath). In order for shallow-water equations to be valid, the wavelength of the phenomenon they are supposed to model has to be much larger than the depth of the ...

  8. Airy wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory

    Water depth is classified into three regimes: [8] Visualization of deep and shallow water waves by relating wavelength to depth to bed. deep water – for a water depth larger than half the wavelength, h > ⁠ 1 / 2 ⁠ λ, the phase speed of the waves is hardly influenced by depth (this is the case for most wind waves on the sea and ocean ...

  9. Newton's law of universal gravitation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton's_law_of_universal...

    It is a generalisation of the vector form, which becomes particularly useful if more than two objects are involved (such as a rocket between the Earth and the Moon). For two objects (e.g. object 2 is a rocket, object 1 the Earth), we simply write r instead of r 12 and m instead of m 2 and define the gravitational field g ( r ) as:

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