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Stopper Knots Stevedore knot (also known as Double figure eight): The Stevedore knot is tied at the end of a rope to prevent the end from unraveling, slipping through another knot, or passing back through a hole, block, or belay/rappel device. It is more bulky and less prone to jamming than the closely related figure-of-eight knot.
Despite questions about this knot's security, it does present some advantages for use in rappels. Because the knot is offset from the axis of tension, it can translate more easily over uneven surfaces and 90 degree edges than other knots; and it is quickly tied and readily untied. Since a stuck rope on a multi-pitch descent can be catastrophic ...
A Tensionless hitch is an anchor knot used for rappelling or rope rescue. Unlike most knots, the tensionless hitch retains a 100% efficiency rating, [3] meaning the strength of the knot is equal to the strength of the rope; it is not a significant stress riser.
Knot board [] on Elbe 1 (ship, 1965). A knot is an intentional complication in cordage [1] which may be practical or decorative, or both. Practical knots are classified by function, including hitches, bends, loop knots, and splices: a hitch fastens a rope to another object; a bend fastens two ends of a rope to each another; a loop knot is any knot creating a loop; and splice denotes any multi ...
The reef knot can capsize if one of its standing ends is pulled.. A knot that has capsized or spilled has deformed into a different structure. Although capsizing is sometimes the result of incorrect tying or misuse, it can also be done purposefully in certain cases to strengthen the knot (see the carrick bend [4]) or to untie a seized knot which would otherwise be difficult to release (see ...
This allows climbers rappelling down cliff faces to keep most of the rope used for the rappel, by tying the knot at the top, and shaking the rope when they reach the bottom. The shaking disconnects the knot at the top, allowing the longer section of rope to fall, meaning only a small amount of rope is retained by the anchor at the top of the cliff.
It is a versatile knot to know and can be used for full rope length vertical descents without the need for gloves. The friction of the rope against the screw on the carabiner can cause the screw to undo and the carabiner to open, potentially weakening the strength of the carabiner, or allowing the rope to escape the carabiner completely.
An autoblock (or autobloc or "third hand") is a rope device used in climbing and caving for both rappelling (downward) and ascending (upward). [1] [2]While rappelling, it slides freely down the rope when pushed downward by the hand, allowing a controlled descent, but jams in the event of a sudden drop or loss of control, stopping the descent.