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Stokes drift in shallow water waves, with a wave length much longer than the water depth. The red circles are the present positions of massless particles, moving with the flow velocity . The light-blue line gives the path of these particles, and the light-blue circles the particle position after each wave period .
The surface tide propagates as a wave in which water parcels in the whole water column oscillate in the same direction at a given phase (i.e., in the trough or at the crest, Fig. 1, top). This means that while the form of the surface wave itself may propagate across the surface of the water, the fluid particles themselves are restricted to a ...
The maximum wave steepness, for periodic and propagating deep-water waves, is H / λ = 0.1410633 ± 4 · 10 −7, [29] so the wave height is about one-seventh ( 1 / 7 ) of the wavelength λ. [24]
The disturbance created by the oscillating plate travels as the transverse wave through the fluid, but it is highly damped by the exponential factor. The depth of penetration δ = 2 ν / ω {\displaystyle \delta ={\sqrt {2\nu /\omega }}} of this wave decreases with the frequency of the oscillation, but increases with the kinematic viscosity of ...
In oceanography, sea state is the general condition of the free surface on a large body of water—with respect to wind waves and swell—at a certain location and moment. A sea state is characterized by statistics, including the wave height, period, and spectrum. The sea state varies with time, as the wind and swell conditions change.
The waves reflect due to changes in water depth (for example when entering shelf seas) and at coastal boundaries. [8] The result is a reflected wave that propagates in the opposite direction to the incident wave. The combination of the reflected wave and the incident wave is the total wave. [12]
Wave–current interaction is also one of the possible mechanisms for the occurrence of rogue waves, such as in the Agulhas Current. When a wave group encounters an opposing current, the waves in the group may pile up on top of each other which will propagate into a rogue wave. [1] [2]
Stokes drift – Average velocity of a fluid parcel in a gravity wave; Undertow (water waves) – Return flow below nearshore water waves. Ursell number – Dimensionless number indicating the nonlinearity of long surface gravity waves on a fluid layer. Wave shoaling – Effect by which surface waves entering shallower water change in wave height