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Unlike bespoke garments, which traditionally involves hand sewing, made-to-measure manufacturers use both machine- and hand-sewing. Made-to-measure also requires fewer fittings than bespoke, resulting in a shorter wait between customer measurement and garment delivery. [2] Made-to-measure is sometimes also referred to as personal tailoring. [3]
Fitting of a bespoke jacket. Bespoke tailoring (/ b i ˈ s p oʊ k / ⓘ) or custom tailoring is clothing made to an individual buyer's specifications by a tailor.Bespoke garments are completely unique and created without the use of a pre-existing pattern, while made to measure uses a standard-sized pattern altered to fit the customer.
Sleeve measurements, which include the under-arm and over-arm lengths, the fore-arm length, the wrist circumference and the biceps circumference. Pit-to-pit measurement is not a tailoring measurement, but a finished garment measure, used in the second-hand internet marketplace, generally the straight line measure across the garment, laid flat ...
Apprentices were also taught the "tailor's posture", to sit cross-legged on a raised board or bench while they sewed. [7] A tailoring establishment then generally consisted of a well-appointed room in which the master would measure customers. Cutting, sewing, buttonholes, and finishing work were performed in adjoining rooms. [8]: 241–8
bespoke tailoring (clothing made to the individual measurements of the customer). [2] Deborah Tannen, a Georgetown University linguistics professor, told The New York Times that "Americans associate it with the British upper class", adding that the word for Americans tapped into "our individualism. We want everything made specially for us.
Tape measures used in tailoring are called "sewing tape". Originally made from flexible cloth or plastic, fiberglass is now the preferred material due to its resistance from stretching or tearing. Sewing tape is mainly used for the measuring of the subject's waist line. [2]
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There are multiple size types, designed to fit somewhat different body shapes. Variations include the height of the person's torso (known as back length), whether the bust, waist, and hips are straighter (characteristic of teenagers) or curvier (like many adult women), and whether the bust is higher or lower (characteristic of younger and older women, respectively).