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The first coat was BLO w/pumice (to seal/fill the pores). Next came 6 coats of high gloss tung oil. As a mechanical protectant (of sorts), the final coat was buffed paste wax. The end result was a VERY high sheen (mostly from the tung oil; the wax just "smoothed" the sheen out a bit).
Tung oil project. Hi all, I have two projects with Tung oil. One is a beech wood kitchen worktop, where I’ve did some testing and can apply the pure tung oil with it easily absorbing and be finished in 3-4 layers. My question is on the second project, which is a chestnut parquet floor. The tung oil does not readily absorb into the wood, so I ...
When tung oil cures the molecules undergo a kind of shrinkage that leave a roughened surface--satin is about what you get. If there is enough of those molecules left on the surface to abrade to a smoother, shinier surface, you have left a very soft surface, certainly compared to French polish which is one of the hardest finish surface.
Tung oil is very slow polymerizing at "room temperature." Even slower as the temeperature goes down. 40-50 degrees is just too cold to do finishing. Either get some kind of closed heater (an electric oil model, etc) to get the area up to at least 65-68 or bring the project into a warmer area of the house. You might try a tent over the project ...
Instead of the TransTint dyes, you can use oil-base dyes (available at woodfinishsupply.com), oil-base stains (Minwax and Benjamin Moore are good choices since they contain a high percenrage of dye vs. pigments), or you can add oil-base pigments like Japan colors in oil (same source as the oil-base dyes).
For example, Minwax Tung Oil Finish is an oil/varnish mix, while Formby's is a varnish. Either type will be OK under shellac and probably will cure more reliably overnight than pure tung oil. With pure tung oil overnight is cutting it a bit close, especially if your finishing space isn't heated to around 70° F. Rich14 | Feb 12, 2007 04:41pm | #5.
Let me suggest you may be overthinking this. As I suggested earlier, for an in-the-wood finish that will be the least amber, pure tung oil, a light alkyd/soya oil varnish like Pratt&Lambert 38 and mineral spirits is the best you can do. Test it out with the 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 proportions and see how it looks on your test piece.
geoffndawn | Posted in General Discussion on December 10, 2002 10:21am. Does anyone have a good formula for how much japan drier to use with tung oil to speed up the drying time? The can references so many ounces of drier with a gallon of paint or varnish, but for small projects is there a formula for how many drops per ounce of oil? Any ideas ...
After using a “tung oil finish” varnish/oil with quite a bit of success. I thought I would use pure tung oil to finish a project to see how it compared. I would like some feedback. When I put on the first and second…or even the 3rd coat of 20 to 50% diluted (in mineral spirits) oil, and wipe it down after 15 minutes to 1/2 hr.
When mixing pure tung oil for a final finish -- I usually use a mix of 1 part raw linseed, 3 parts tung, 11.5 parts turps, 0.5 parts Japan drier -- I mix basically what I'll need for a project, although I've had the mixture hold up well in glass containers for six months or so before it's used up on smaller projects.LWJ.