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I'm thinking of picking up a small , used, older RV. Looks like our little 3 banger would be a GREAT tow behind.
First, get a set of gauges. You do not need to get the expensive ones. A set can be found at your local parts store or Harbor Freight for >$50.00. Then a can tap. A thermometer is good, but not totally necessary. I have 2, one for inside and one for outside. Find the ports on your car. They are different for every car. These are on a 2001 Dakota.
Dec 07, 2018 #1. I am helping another GMF member straighten a bent bumper mount extension to the front frame rail. (one side got pushed in from the side, so one bumper extension rail got bent sideways about 30 degrees) Here's one sophisticated repair idea from pirate4x4.com. An alternative might be to open up the end of the bumper mounting rail ...
Princess Auto (Canada's Harbor Freight type store) had a hole saw kit for $9.99. Special clearance sale.. Performance Tool brand, lol..) I need the 4" cutter to make a clean hole in my portable plastic PTFE fuel tank, with an in tank fuel module project.
Jun 06, 2022 #6. I have used the Harbor freight tow bar to tow many cars from Geos to VW bugs and others. with Geos I take the plastic bumper cover off and bolt direct to the metal bumper I use extra large/thick washers through the bumper. I also have the safety chain attached to the lower tow holes on the Geo.
Socket set that goes to 15mm and 11/16" and will cover 98% of the bolts in the geo $4.99 harbor freight. Timing light. I think it was $12 or $17 at HF Torque Wrench $20 $15 if you wait for a sale. Be careful with the PCV screws they REALLY love stripping. use a GOOD fitting screw driver and PUSH DOWN really hard.
Was prepping my Harbor Freight welder (old Blue Case) $90 welder last night. Only used once before and it paid for itself with welding a rusted out neck from a catalytic converter on the Altima. Since I wanted to try and do nicer welds, I thought I'd change out the original HF welding wire and go for some nice .030 Lincoln wire. I found:
Took about three hours to get it in place. I used my harbor freight grinder to grind off the ugly welds and when I smacked it with a hammer, the bottom part popped off. Had to weld again and it's on there solid! I filled in some of the holes and gaps using scraps and slivers of metal I had cut off earlier from the sheet metal arch.
I have had the bearing pressed into the steering knuckle, and I was able to remove the (outer/inner?) race from the wheel hub with a bearing separator I got from harbor freight. Now I was going to re-use the inner wheel seal since the whole metal thing just came off the steering knuckle, but I had to buy a new outer seal because the old one was ...
What I found: Disposal and P-trap are clean and clear. Drainage had been slowly getting slower and slower past few week. (hour for the sink to drain. After leaving overnight, it took 27 seconds of running water before the sink started to fill and then just sit there. P-Trap goes to cast iron pipe curved down, then into the wall about 5 inches ...
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