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Close-up of a rare contemporary chope made in Rajpura, Punjab (India) in 2015. This is the only style where the outlines of the figures are drawn using black ink. It is then filled by embroidering with darn stitch. In other styles, there are no patterns drawn and the work was done only by counting the threads from the back.
The embroidery styles of the Punjab region include the styles of Multani embroidery which features kalabatun [84] patterns using thin wires. This type of embroidery is also common in the rest of the Punjab region. Kalabatan surkh involves using gold wires on orange coloured and red silk.
Embroidery in India includes dozens of embroidery styles that vary by region and clothing styles. Designs in Indian embroidery are formed on the basis of the texture and the design of the fabric and the stitch. The dot and the alternate dot, the circle, the square, the triangle, and permutations and combinations of these constitute the design.
The base material for Kashida is cotton, wool or silk in a variety of colours like white, blue, yellow, purple, red, green and black. The stitches may vary with the material to be embroidered. [7] Do - rukha'l embroidery (Chamba Kasidakari) has characteristics of its own which differentiates it from other forms of embroidery in India. [3] [4]
The embroidery, practiced normally by women is generally done on fabrics of cotton, in the form of a net using cotton or silk threads. In certain patterns, it is also crafted over silk and satin. The types of stitches adopted are “square chain, double buttonhole, pattern darning, running stitch, satin and straight stitches”.
Punjabi men wear the straight cut Punjabi shalwar kameez, kurta, or shalwar. Dhoti, lungi, or tehmat are often worn in rural areas. [10] [11] [12] Other Punjabi shalwar styles include the Pothohari shalwar, [13] Multani shalwar, Dhoti shalwar, and the Bahawalpuri shalwar which is very wide and baggy [14] with many folds.
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