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A long gown with a train has fur at the cuffs and neckline and is worn with a wide belt, c. 1460. An attendant in the same illustration wears a red hood with a long liripipe. Her blue dress is "kirtled" or shortened by poufing it over a belt, c. 1460. Woman wears a simple headdress of draped linen and a red houppelande trimmed with white fur ...
The high-waisted gown of the late medieval period evolved in several directions in different parts of Europe. In the German states and Bohemia, gowns remained short-waisted, tight-laced but without corsets or stays. The open-fronted gown laced over the kirtle or a stomacher or plackard. Sleeves were puffed and slashed, or elaborately cuffed.
Gowns were made in a variety of styles: Loose or fitted (called in England a French gown); with short half sleeves or long sleeves; and floor length (a round gown) or with a trailing train. [20] [21] The gown was worn over a kirtle or petticoat (or both, for warmth). Prior to 1545, the kirtle consisted of a fitted one-piece garment. [22]
St John the Baptist wears his iconographical clothes, but the sainted English kings Edward the Confessor and Edmund the Martyr are in contemporary royal dress. The Wilton Diptych 1395–99. Wool was the most important material for clothing, due to its numerous favourable qualities, such as the ability to take dye and its being a good insulator. [5]
Anne of Denmark had her gowns altered in 1603 to suit English fashions, and employed Robert Hughes to make farthingales from 1603 to 1618. [28] Robert Naunton thought that Anne's farthingale might conceal a pregnancy in October 1605, writing, "The Queen is generally held to be pregnant, but no appearance eminent by reason of the short vardugals ...
Dress for women was more loosely fit compared to the previous century and somewhat more modest, the era from about 1220 onward having notably been characterised as the 'elegant period' in Gothic dress by Ortwin Gamber. A narrow belt was uniform, which could be richly decorated with metal plating in various colours such as gold and green.
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