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The Delphos gown is a finely pleated silk dress first created in about 1907 by French designer Henriette Negrin (1877 - 1965) and her husband, Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871–1949). Negrin was the designer; Fortuny filed the patent for the manufacturing method in his own name, while crediting her in the application.
Henriette Fortuny wearing Fortuny garments, including the pleated Delphos gown she designed. Portrait by Mariano Fortuny (1935), Musée Fortuny, Venice. (Adèle) Henriette Negrin, (or Nigrin), born on October 4, 1877, in Fontainebleau, died in 1965 in Venice, was a French clothes-designer and textile artist.
Their dresses are seen as fine works of art today and many survive, still pleated, in museums and personal collections. In Paris, Fortuny garments were retailed by Babani, who sold Delphos dresses and other garments to the actress Eleonora Duse. [9] In 2012, the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute in New York City mounted an exhibition of his work. [10]
Woodblock print of sunray pleated folding fan, Japan, 19th century; Afternoon costume with box pleated skirt and unpressed box pleated bodice panel, France, 1886; Fortuny pleated Delphos gown, 1917; Knife-pleated kilt with pleats sewn down to the hip line, 2005; Organ pleated gown, Florentine, 1470; Tea gowns with Watteau-pleated backs, Russia ...
Designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri, the gorgeous pleated silk gown (which took 500 hours to make!!!) is embroidered with “Millefiori” flowers — which are all hand panted, printed and embroidered.
The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston has in its collection [3] four excellently preserved pleated linen dresses, all found in 1902-1903 by George A. Reisner at the cemetery of Naga ed-Deir in Egypt. [4] It is not known exactly how the Egyptians pleated linen, but the material may have been "folded, accordion style, then tied, and wetted." [5]
The Groves Classification is a numbering system to enable the shape of any academic gown or hood to be easily described and identified. It was devised by Nicholas Groves to establish a common terminology for hoods and gowns to remedy the situation of individual universities using differing terms to describe the same item.
For his dress designs he conceived a special pleating process and new dyeing techniques. He patented his process in Paris on 4 November 1910. [5] He gave the name Delphos to his long, clinging sheath dresses that undulated with color, so called because it emulated the dress of the bronze statue of the Charioteer of Delphi.
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