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The Official Table of Drops, formerly issued by the British Home Office, is a manual which is used to calculate the appropriate length of rope for long drop hangings. Following a series of failed hangings, including those of John Babbacombe Lee , a committee chaired by Henry Bruce, 1st Baron Aberdare was formed in 1886 to discover and report on ...
The climber will fall about the same height h in both cases, but they will be subjected to a greater force at position 1, due to the greater fall factor.. In lead climbing using a dynamic rope, the fall factor (f) is the ratio of the height (h) a climber falls before the climber's rope begins to stretch and the rope length (L) available to absorb the energy of the fall,
Instead, the strength of a rope is tested by the number of standard test falls a rope can sustain before breaking. The test falls use an 80 kg weight for single ropes (55 kg for half ropes), and a fall factor of 1.7 (4 meter fall on 2.3 meters of rope). This tests simulates a very hard fall that would rarely occur.
In rock climbing, an anchor can be any device or method for attaching a climber, rope, or load to a climbing surface—typically rock, ice, steep dirt, or a building—either permanently or temporarily. The intention of an anchor is case-specific but is usually for fall protection, primarily fall arrest and fall restraint.
In any fall, the 'lead climber' will fall at least twice the distance of the runout (and sometimes more if the climbing rope has to flex, or if the belayer does not immediately grip the rope tight and lets more rope 'pay-out'). The greater the runout, the greater the total distance in any fall, and the greater the mental pressure on the climber.
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Fall factor management. Multi-pitch climbers need to avoid the lead climber falling with no climbing protection in situ, so that they fall all the way down to the belayer and then the same distance again below the belayer. Such a fall has a fall-factor of 2 and will create significant strains on both the belay anchors and the belayer.
A single-pitch route can range from 7 metres (23 ft) to the full length of the climbing rope (by definition, the longest belay of a 'leader' is limited by the length of the rope). In the 1960s to the 1980s, climbing ropes were typically 50 metres (160 ft) in length, however, modern ropes are typically 60–70 metres (200–230 ft) in length ...
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