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Try the 5/16"-18x2" trailer deck screws, will last longer than the floor in my experience.Do have drill pilot hole. I've put a sick amount of those down in my life, I believe a smaller size, they do a nice job, that's the only thing I'd use
On my last re-deck I just drilled counter sink holes 1/4" deep with a hole saw and popped the 1/4" deep plug out with a small chisel. My trailer sits outside and gets a lot of wet/dry expansion cycles, that coupled with load bearing stress and it will pull screws out in no time.
Trailer deck screws are indeed the way to go, BUT I can't be sure, but looking at the pics, it looks like your crossmembers are mainly rectangular tubing. Might want to think twice before piercing them with screws. Lets water in, and leads to rust.
I am building a small trailer and I am planning on using 1 1/2 x 2 inch angle as the floor supports I am wondering if having the angle installed with the edge of the 2 inch side up and welded to the floor would be stronger than having the 1 1/2 side welded to the bottom of the floor my thought is the the 1 1/2 side would act as a flange under tension or would there be little difference
I had a trailer kind of like that but mine had head ache rack around it. It was still pretty flexy and the deck was really flexy, to the point where numerous cross supports were buckled. The only cure for mine was to cut it apart, save the head ache rack sides and axles + tires, deck wood and rebuild it as a deck over axle.
I do have to put some more 1/2" angle bar in to support the door, fenders, lighting, etc but otherwise my plan would be to coat it in antirust paint, screw on 1/2" MDO flooring, place rigid .75" insulation for the panels backed by glued on 1/8" wood paneling on the inside, then coat the entire thing in spray/roll on truck liner to protect the frame and add rigidity to the shell.
A few bends to the frame, new steaks for the side, and a new bed. I can do the metal work in a few hours, then paint, but thought I could save some time for me to send the trailer to a shop to replace the wood. After a bid of 1200 just for the bed, I don't think so (the trailer is only 8x16).
There's always the option of getting the trailer, removing the deck at your leisure, then waiting for a deal on reasonable decking material. Reply 04-06-2011 #10
Lots of builders discount the value the deck and fenders add to the structural integrity of the trailer. In your case you could have gained a lot by running that lower beam all the way back to the front spring hanger, then adding a 9 or 10ga. backer to the fender.
I have to replace 33 cross members on a 53’ traveling axle trailer and I need to know if i cutout the coss member figure on one of the sides to slide in the new one as a whole piece will it affect the structural integrity of the frame. How much should I charge to do that and replace all the wood deck also and paint in california.